----- Original Message ----- > Bob Hull > Another idea came me about making up the thickness for > the back of the block: What about using part of the > old block back? Sure - as long as its integrity is good. Good thinking! > I am going to remove it by drilling > out just in front of the glue joint and then > chiseling, planing, steaming out the remainder. I > could plane down the old one and band saw it to an > approx. thickness then run it through the thickness > planer. I wonder if it would be too hard for my > bandsaw (Delta 14") or if the aged wood would be too > different from the newer block material that I would > add to it? The old maple (or whatever) should cut similar to new maple. I'm quite sure your saw, properly set up with a proper blade, would cut a block just fine. > Would you use epoxy or titebond? Epoxy. But that's coming from "The Epoxy Man" and he is biased. Really, it depends on the quality of the glue joint. If the glue surfaces can be shaped to all meet nice a flush, then Titebond should work just fine. If you find it is difficult (or you just don't want to bother) to make perfectly aligning glue joints, then epoxy is definitely the way to go. For an important structural joint like this I recommend using West System epoxy (or an equivalent) thickened with their 404 High-Density filler and utilizing their two-step bonding method http://www.westsystem.com/ (click on "Using West System Epoxy" and scroll down). Hope this helps. Terry Farrell -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/20070206/ec1b9b74/attachment.html
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