Hi Annie 1) A friend asked for suggestions on solving dryness problems in his concertina. After some discussion, it occured to me that a soaked clay flower pot in a closed container should work like a humidifier in a humidor, adding moisture without dampness. To test it out, I soaked a 2" clay pot in cold water for 5 minutes, patted it dry, and then put it in a flip-lid plastic box (12x18x10) with a hygrometer. The initial humidity in the box was 33% -- the same as my house right now, given the heat demands of this cold spell (aaargh!). An hour later, the interior RH of the box was 66%. And 15 hours later, it's 92%. The interior temp has not changed more than a degree or two the entire time. Not a bad idea, tho a plastic box is kind of a sealed environment and wont allow any humidity to escape. I would imagine that even in a small room the pot would give off its humidity to the room quite quickly, which in turn would (somewhat more slowly) distribute it to the rest of the world. Still.. a big enough pot complete with dirt and a plant would have an effect... and a few such potted plants would have more. An idea I often suggest is a fair sized aquarium with the glass top removed. In a 15 m^3 room, a 250 litre aquarium will have a very positive affect.... grin.. course you have to like fish ! 2) Question one: is a pitch lowering likely to be less stable than a pitch raise, in your experience? I have observed that when I have to lower the pitch on a piano (because of environmental moisture), it's more likely to go back sharp again, regardless of whether I tune it once or thrice. My hypothesis is that the string tension is keeping the piano from swelling as much as it could -- and so lowering the string tension allows/encourages the piano to swell more, thus raising the pitch again. It's like taking off a pair of shoes that're too tight -- your feet swell up in response. So, am I hallucinating? Has anyone else noticed this? Actually, I used to have this problem years ago. Especially in slight pitch changes downwards. But I find that if I treat the tuning exactly as a pitch raise, i.e. lowering about a 3rd more of the distance then the distance between starting pitch and target pitch, that I end up just about exactly where I want to every time for the second pass. I dont like to speculate as to reasons for why things happen much. But I can say that if you tune a pitch raise like Dean Reyburn recommends, i.e. starting at the bass, using his pitch overpull and tuning chromatically upwards you will get the same kind of results... even better. BUT... if you use the same pitch overpull he contrived and tune octaves chromatically... then on the second pass you will find the lower notes of your chromatic octave have dropped back quite a bit more then the notes at the top of the chromatic octave. Kind of speaks to me of a system wide stress reaction and not some particular component reacting. Cant help you on the last question.. Billings flanges is not something we see a lot over here... and thankfully drop actions is not something I've had to deal with for around 30 years :) I do remember tho that ofte times these actions did suffer the kind of symptom you relate. I was too young and dumb to know what to do back then... but over exageration of friction reduction measures worked. Probably not the thing to do tho. Cheers RicB 3) Question two: I'm rebuilding a 1916 Starck vertical (with Billing flanges) and have rebushed the keys and replaced hammer/jack springs, bridle straps, and felt (including hammers) in the action. All flanges/pins are free but not sloppy. I can't find have any technical data on this piano, but I have regulated it to the general old-upright standards, and each note feels/plays pretty darned well. So I think I'm safely within acceptable limits. Except (and I realize this is a direct contradiction to the previous statement) that the action, as a whole, feels as though it is continuously shifting and changing. A note that repeats beautifully 20 times will stick the 21st. Intermittent non-repetition is the single biggest problem. Key height/dip/easing, lost motion, let off, checking, and aftertouch are all within the proper ranges, and damper timing is acceptable. I've lessened the tension on the hammerbutt springs a bit, thinking that they were too strong for the jack springs, and that did help some. I also tried running some material under the hammerbutt leather on the note that makes me most crazy (A4, of course)... and it made the problem worse. I suspect that the material I used was too soft, thereby hanging up the jack even worse than the worn leather. Some things I have noticed: the capstans are not all centered in the keys. And (consequently?) some stickers are not quite vertical (I can adjust them to vertical, but they won't stay). Those are the notes most likely to stick. The jack flanges are not noticeably crooked when compared with the wippens, as that was one suggestion, but the hammerbutt leather has almost no curve left to it. So, the only thing I can think left to do is to replace the hammer butt leather. So the question(s): am I overlooking something else? what are the tricks to replacing hammerbutt leather? does anyone have specifications? Oh, and I forgot to mention, the piano is 200 miles from my home, so it's not like I can just go next door and try something. (Yes, I do realize (now) how stupid that is. Just as I am no longer "allowed" to choose my own boyfriends, I am also barred from choosing my own rebuild projects in the future. All candidates must be submitted to The Committee.......... <g>) Thank you, thank you, thank you all -- and I look forward to comments and suggestions! Annie Grieshop www.allthingspiano.com * Previous message: Two broken bass strings in one tuning?????
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