Hi Annie
1) A friend asked for suggestions on solving dryness problems in his
concertina. After some discussion, it occured to me that a soaked clay
flower pot in a closed container should work like a humidifier in a
humidor,
adding moisture without dampness. To test it out, I soaked a 2"
clay pot in
cold water for 5 minutes, patted it dry, and then put it in a flip-lid
plastic box (12x18x10) with a hygrometer. The initial humidity in
the box
was 33% -- the same as my house right now, given the heat demands of
this
cold spell (aaargh!). An hour later, the interior RH of the box was
66%.
And 15 hours later, it's 92%. The interior temp has not changed
more than a
degree or two the entire time.
Not a bad idea, tho a plastic box is kind of a sealed environment and
wont allow any humidity to escape. I would imagine that even in a small
room the pot would give off its humidity to the room quite quickly,
which in turn would (somewhat more slowly) distribute it to the rest of
the world. Still.. a big enough pot complete with dirt and a plant
would have an effect... and a few such potted plants would have more.
An idea I often suggest is a fair sized aquarium with the glass top
removed. In a 15 m^3 room, a 250 litre aquarium will have a very
positive affect.... grin.. course you have to like fish !
2) Question one: is a pitch lowering likely to be less stable than
a pitch
raise, in your experience? I have observed that when I have to
lower the
pitch on a piano (because of environmental moisture), it's more
likely to go
back sharp again, regardless of whether I tune it once or thrice. My
hypothesis is that the string tension is keeping the piano from
swelling as
much as it could -- and so lowering the string tension
allows/encourages the
piano to swell more, thus raising the pitch again. It's like taking
off a
pair of shoes that're too tight -- your feet swell up in response.
So, am I
hallucinating? Has anyone else noticed this?
Actually, I used to have this problem years ago. Especially in slight
pitch changes downwards. But I find that if I treat the tuning exactly
as a pitch raise, i.e. lowering about a 3rd more of the distance then
the distance between starting pitch and target pitch, that I end up
just about exactly where I want to every time for the second pass. I
dont like to speculate as to reasons for why things happen much. But I
can say that if you tune a pitch raise like Dean Reyburn recommends,
i.e. starting at the bass, using his pitch overpull and tuning
chromatically upwards you will get the same kind of results... even
better. BUT... if you use the same pitch overpull he contrived and tune
octaves chromatically... then on the second pass you will find the lower
notes of your chromatic octave have dropped back quite a bit more then
the notes at the top of the chromatic octave. Kind of speaks to me of a
system wide stress reaction and not some particular component reacting.
Cant help you on the last question.. Billings flanges is not something
we see a lot over here... and thankfully drop actions is not something
I've had to deal with for around 30 years :)
I do remember tho that ofte times these actions did suffer the kind of
symptom you relate. I was too young and dumb to know what to do back
then... but over exageration of friction reduction measures worked.
Probably not the thing to do tho.
Cheers
RicB
3) Question two: I'm rebuilding a 1916 Starck vertical (with Billing
flanges) and have rebushed the keys and replaced hammer/jack
springs, bridle
straps, and felt (including hammers) in the action. All
flanges/pins are
free but not sloppy. I can't find have any technical data on this
piano,
but I have regulated it to the general old-upright standards, and
each note
feels/plays pretty darned well. So I think I'm safely within acceptable
limits.
Except (and I realize this is a direct contradiction to the previous
statement) that the action, as a whole, feels as though it is
continuously
shifting and changing. A note that repeats beautifully 20 times
will stick
the 21st. Intermittent non-repetition is the single biggest problem.
Key height/dip/easing, lost motion, let off, checking, and
aftertouch are
all within the proper ranges, and damper timing is acceptable. I've
lessened the tension on the hammerbutt springs a bit, thinking that they
were too strong for the jack springs, and that did help some. I
also tried
running some material under the hammerbutt leather on the note that
makes me
most crazy (A4, of course)... and it made the problem worse. I
suspect that
the material I used was too soft, thereby hanging up the jack even worse
than the worn leather.
Some things I have noticed: the capstans are not all centered in the
keys.
And (consequently?) some stickers are not quite vertical (I can
adjust them
to vertical, but they won't stay). Those are the notes most likely to
stick. The jack flanges are not noticeably crooked when compared
with the
wippens, as that was one suggestion, but the hammerbutt leather has
almost
no curve left to it. So, the only thing I can think left to do is to
replace the hammer butt leather.
So the question(s): am I overlooking something else? what are the
tricks
to replacing hammerbutt leather? does anyone have specifications?
Oh, and I forgot to mention, the piano is 200 miles from my home, so
it's
not like I can just go next door and try something. (Yes, I do realize
(now) how stupid that is. Just as I am no longer "allowed" to
choose my own
boyfriends, I am also barred from choosing my own rebuild projects
in the
future. All candidates must be submitted to The Committee..........
<g>)
Thank you, thank you, thank you all -- and I look forward to
comments and
suggestions!
Annie Grieshop
www.allthingspiano.com
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