>. . . Put another way, am I being too "sensitive" in expecting some effort
>in filling the gaps in the rim in a structurally sound manner?
>Patrick Draine
I don't believe so Patrick. I believe that it is inappropriate to
rebuild any grand piano with a de-laminating case. There has been
much written on this list about certain pianos having potentially
inferior tonal characteristics due to having luaun rims for example,
but a grand piano with a de-laminating rim will have significant loss
characteristics regardless of the wood quality used for its
construction.
The problem with repairing certain de-laminated sections of an older
grand piano rim is that the entire rim was constructed with the same
glue and has been subjected to the same climatic conditions over
time. Therefore, with some de-lamination already evident, it is
likely that any repair carried out on the case may prove to be akin
to rearranging the deck-chairs on the Titanic. More de-lamination
will be inevitable. This is why whenever we are called in to rebuild
a piano with a de-laminated case, I recommend that the owner disposes
of the piano and acquires a suitable shell. Sometimes this provides
an opportunity to dispose of a brand name piano with a poor scale
design, changing it for one with a brand name of less repute, but
with a scale design which is very close to best practice. This will
enable the rebuilder to create an instrument of far greater musical
worth.
In the case of this piano, it may be worth injecting glue into the
de-laminated areas. There's no guarantee that other parts of the case
won't de-laminate in time, but since it has been fitted with a new
board something needs to be done. We use un-thinned Titebond Extend
(when thinned, its gap filling qualities are not as good) and maple
hammer shanks. With the rim laminations clamped together and the case
inverted, we drill close tolerance holes up from the bottom edge of
the rim to almost the full depth of the de-lamination. With the
clamps loosened a bit, the holes are filled one at a time with
Titebond. A hammer shank, without glue-escape grooves, is driven in
the full depth of the hole. Glue flies everywhere. As the dowels are
progressively driven home the rim behind is clamped together and the
excess glue cleaned up. This process gets the glue deep within the
rim to ensure a proper repair. The excess hammer shank is trimmed
after the glue dries and the bottom of the rim refinished. We've done
this repair many times. It is also a useful procedure for pianos
which have an otherwise good rim which has been dropped. While this
process works very well, I remain reluctant to recommend rebuilding
de-laminated cases and using this process. There is always a chance
of original glue joints de-laminating at a later date.
Ron O
--
OVERS PIANOS - SYDNEY.
Grand Piano Manufacturers
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Web http://overspianos.com.au
mailto:ron at overspianos.com.au
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