Blow distance is the first thing to do on an upright. If the rest rail felt is shot or deeply grooved by the shanks, replace it. It's a cheap and easy repair. Set blow and go through the steps from there. If the distance is not right, nothing else will work well. If you don't have a spec for this, set it at 1 3/4" then -- always -- fully regulate a handful of keys in octave 4 and a few in the bass and treble when you have those working. If you can't set a dip of around 3/8 inch that works well and feels good or if the key height is really funky, you can revisit blow. Some uprights need a little more, try 1 7/8". Regulate your test keys. When all is well, put the rest of the piano together. Someone (I think Randy Potter) said: "Incorrect blow distance is the beginning of all regulation problems" or words to that effect. Alan Barnard Salem, MO Joshua 24:15 Original message From: KeyKat88 at aol.com To: pianotech at ptg.org Received: 01/28/2007 9:34:11 AM Subject: rookie question; Setting bLow distance Greetings, Reading Reblitz's book, his step #8 to reguating a vertical states to shim up the hammer rest rail to the correct blow distance. My question is, if this is done then arent you tampering with/advancing the stroke and infringing upon the room/space in which the parts need to cycle? Seems to me, if a piano is an old upright, wouldnt it be wise to first at least replace the felt front and balance rail punchings, before you go ahead and set the stroKe?? Julia Gottshall Reading, PA -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/20070128/a28f097b/attachment.html
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