rookie question; Setting bLow distance

[Concert Piano Service]

On 28-jan-2007, at 23:17, Alan R. Barnard wrote:

> Greetings,
>
>        Reading Reblitz's book, his step #8 to reguating a vertical  
> states to shim up the hammer rest rail to the correct blow  
> distance. My question is, if this is done then arent you tampering  
> with/advancing the stroke and infringing upon the room/space in  
> which the parts need to cycle? Seems to me, if a piano is an old  
> upright, wouldnt it be wise to first at least replace the felt  
> front and balance rail punchings, before you go ahead and set the  
> stroKe??
>
> Julia Gottshall
> Reading, PA

Hi Julia,

A pianist starts playing the pianos by touching the keys.
Therefor, his or her initial contact with a piano starts with  
depressing keys.
The touch and feel of any piano is the most important moment to any  
player of this kind of instrument.
Generally speaking, the piano industry has come to a sort of  
agreement that key dip should be very close to around 10 mm, give or  
take.
This at least is a very important issue.
So, if we can accept that key dip, generally speaking, is 10 mm, than  
it means that hammer travel, or blow distance, is around 1:5 which  
means 10 mm : 50 mm.
In practice this is not true, because the hammer striking distance is  
always less.

If we don't know any better, than we may assume that our striking  
distance gauge tells us what the correct hammer striking distance  
SHOULD be.
However, if we can accept that key dip is something we don't tamper  
with, than the hammer striking distance depends on what the action  
allows for.
A more firm front punching like the Wurzen front punching in fact  
tells us exactly what a key dip of 10 mm means. without any compromise.
If you stick to this, and follow up on the normal regulation  
procedure, a 'blow distance' of around 46 mm will be more or less  
correct.

There is more to it, but life is tough enough.

OOR


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from
André Oorebeek

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