On 10/29/07, Dean May <deanmay at pianorebuilders.com> wrote: > > Yes, Home Depot, Lowes, any hardware store. Look in the plumbing section. > It's just a cap that is glued on the end of a section of plastic pipe to > stub it off. > > > > Take one of the nuts with you to find the right size cap to fit over the > end. If the cap is a little big you can fill it up with caulk or GOOP glue. > > > > If you really want to dress up the back paint all the posts and back in a > flat black latex. > > > > > > *Dean* > > Dean May cell 812.239.3359 > > PianoRebuilders.com 812.235.5272 > > Terre Haute IN 47802 > ------------------------------ > > *From:* pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] *On > Behalf Of *pianolover 88 > *Sent:* Monday, October 29, 2007 11:18 PM > *To:* Pianotech List > *Subject:* RE: Upright pinblock question > > > > Thanks Dean! I was actually thinking of cutting some felt circles to cover > each recessed area. Where can I find/buy the cpvc caps? Would H. Depot have > them, or is it something I would have to make myself? Thanks! > > Terry Peterson > > > From: deanmay at pianorebuilders.com > > To: pianotech at ptg.org > > Subject: RE: Upright pinblock question > > Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 22:33:20 -0400 > > > > Looks Great! You should try dressing up those nuts on the backside with > 1/2" > > cpvc caps. > > > > Dean > > > > Dean May cell 812.239.3359 > > > > PianoRebuilders.com 812.235.5272 > > > > Terre Haute IN 47802 > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On > Behalf > > Of pianolover 88 > > Sent: Monday, October 29, 2007 9:42 PM > > To: PIANOTECH at PTG.ORG > > Subject: FW: Upright pinblock question > > > > > > Just modified the the job. To be on the safe(er) side, I ended up using > > super strong GRADE 8 Hex head 5/16" bolts (Same diameter as factory > screws) > > since flat heads w/cone shape under head were available only in grade 2! > I > > then used small locking washers, and put the bolts from inside to back, > > using extra large 1 1/2' outer diameter 'Fender' washers. I also used a > 1.5" > > spade bit to counter sink. I think it should hold up pretty well indeed. > > Thanks for all the help! > > ________________________________ > > Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 11:58:28 -0500 > > From: IFixPianos at yahoo.com > > To: pianotech at ptg.org; pianolover88 at hotmail.com > > Subject: Re: Upright pinblock question > > > > > > > > On 10/28/07, John Ross <jrpiano at win.eastlink.ca> wrote: > > Why don't you just get a piece of angle iron, then you would also have > > rigidity. > > The original lag bolts are normally close to the top, so I think angle > iron > > would work. > > You might have to route an indent, so the lid will lie flat. > > John M. Ross > > Windsor, Nova Scotia, Canada > > jrpiano at win.eastlink.ca > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: 'gordon stelter' <lclgcnp at yahoo.com> > > To: 'Pianotech List' <pianotech at ptg.org> > > Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 9:18 PM > > Subject: Re: Upright pinblock question > > > > > > > I put the bolts in from the front, but with a > > > BUNCH of fender washers under the nut on the back: > > > lest the nuts/washers get sucked into the wood. > > > ( Nobody should put an upright right against the wall, > > > anyway. ) > > > On a very rare and costly upright I may soon be > > > working on, I intend to have a 1/8 inch ( at least ) > > > steelplate made to stretch all the way across the > > > back, with holes drilled in it, for the bolts to go > > > through. Not very pretty, but the most stable, > > > long-lasting solution. ( Should help keep the back > > > from 'cupping', too! ) > > > > > > Peace, > > > G > > > > > > > > > > > > --- Willem Blees <wimblees at aol.com> wrote: > > > > > >> > > > > > > __________________________________________________ > > > Do You Yahoo!? > > > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around > > > http://mail.yahoo.com > > > > > > > Hi Terry, > > > > I have done the exact repair you are contemplating on the exact piano > you > > are referring to. First of all, the reason it seperated is because > Kohler & > > Cambell in their very wise woodworkers way made their back structure > from > > spruce and glued the pinblock to it. Since spruce expands/contracts at a > > differing rate than maple it seperated at the glue joint! Surprise! > > Now to the fix, first of all you need PIPE clamps not c-clamps c-clamps > will > > warp and not give you nearly the holding power that pipe clamps will, I > know > > I've tried both! You can get Pony brand pipe clamps at any home center, > get > > the 3/4' , you can also get the threaded pipe you'll need, I'd get 12' > > lengths, that's long enough for any old uprights you may want to bolt in > the > > future. I have about 8 clamps but usually only have space for 6 of them. > > Place a clamp near each screw bore the screw hole and pinblock behind it > all > > the way through, I use 1/2' carriage bolts about 1/2' longer than the > > thickness of back and plate, If there isn't room for 1/2' use 7/16' or > if > > that's still too big then you have to use 3/8' but then go to the grade > 5 > > hardened bolts, the standard grade 3/8' snap off way too easily. They > come > > in half sizes to 6'. I use a large flat washer under the head of the > bolt, > > one large enough for the square heade to fit through it but for the > round > > lip to catch on it, in back, a small flat washer and a lock washer and > nut > > in front against the plate. Snug them tight until the bolt tries to > turn, If > > they turn too soon, put a clamp on them at an angle to hold it while you > > tighten. > > There is no need to lower tension since your clamps will maintain the > hold > > that the screws did. You will need a good drill, a cordless won't do the > > job, something with at least 4 amps of power. A good metal bit and > depending > > on how thick the back is, perhaps a longer auger bit to finish out the > hole, > > lengthwise. > > As for glue, I've always just used Titebond since it serves more as a > filler > > than anything else and mostly squeezes out anyway. > > The plus side of investing in the clamps is you can invest in longer > lengths > > of pipe to use them for case repairs on pianos, bench repairs, wherever > you > > need a clamp of whatever length you need since you can combine lengths > of > > pipe w/couplers as well as get longer lengths. > > > > Mike > > -- > > Learn from yesterday, live for today, hope for tomorrow. The important > thing > > is to not stop questioning.-- Albert Einstein > > > > > > > > Michael Magness > > Magness Piano Service > > 608-786-4404 > > www.IFixPianos.com <http://www.ifixpianos.com/> > > email mike at ifixpianos.com > > > > ________________________________ > > Peek-a-boo FREE Tricks & Treats for You! Get 'em! > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > > Peek-a-boo FREE Tricks & Treats for You! > > http://www.reallivemoms.com?ocid=TXT_TAGHM&loc=us<http://www.reallivemoms.com/?ocid=TXT_TAGHM&loc=us> > > > ------------------------------ > > Windows Live Hotmail and Microsoft Office Outlook – together at last. Get > it now!<http://office.microsoft.com/en-us/outlook/HA102225181033.aspx?pid=CL100626971033> > Hi Terry, Glad to see the modification, that's what I was talking about! Now you have a repair that you don't have to be concerned about in the future, Great Job!! Mike -- Learn from yesterday, live for today, hope for tomorrow. The important thing is to not stop questioning.-- Albert Einstein Michael Magness Magness Piano Service 608-786-4404 www.IFixPianos.com email mike at ifixpianos.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/20071030/d54fb2bc/attachment-0001.html
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