Wurlitzer Console Woes

[tom]

   _____  

Subject: Wurlitzer Console Woes

 

Hi, All:

            There was a recent discussion about Wurlitzer console action
problems.  My customer has a sluggish action, where the slightest amount of
friction upsets the balance, and the key, won't return.  Also, someone
sprayed something on this action that’s softened the wood.  Many of the
wippen flanges are loose and you can wiggle the wippens side to side.  I
took a flange off to repin it, and the flange split in two while I was
removing the pin.  I blame whatever was sprayed everywhere on the wood.
It’s also made the a! ction centers sticky.   I may have to add weights
somewhere before all is said and done. 

            But that’s not my immediate problem.  I need to replace the
action screws which broke off inside the piano.  You know the ones-  they’re
buried behind the plate.  I got the new Grab-It kit from the local H.D. and
I found a Wurlitzer screw remover in the Schaff  catalog.  Anybody have any
luck with this?  I also need the screws.  I did find some lag bolts that are
the same size, which I’ll use if I have to.  

            Any suggestions (aside from trashing this thing) would be
welcome.   Thanks!

            Paul McCloud

Paul,

I’ll leave the action problems aside here and address the broken action
bracket screws.  We have a gazillion of these little things up here in the
northeast.

 

To be clear these are the four LONG round head screws that attach the top of
each bracket into the wood behind the plate.

They pass through phenolic? spacers.

Keep these in order. They are sometimes different lengths and the left one
is notched for clearance of the #1 bass string .

Anyway, we have a gazillion of these little things up here in the northeast.

The problem is that the screw(s) are too long-thin-soft for their
application.

All is fine for 30+ years until the technician tries to back them out.  One
clue is their color. The blued not silver screws are the most likely to
break.

A test attempt at removal will tell the story and you can price the job
accordingly before the customer agrees to your final fee.

I hate having to change an agreed upon price 10 minutes into the job.

Back one out a quarter turn and if it feels like silly putty then twists
back on release you have a candidate for breakage.

If they back out and feel “normal “I don’t replace.

I’ve had no luck with pre-lubing the suckers before attempt at removal.
Sometimes they just have to break.        

So here is the easy fix and you can get everything at your local hardware
store.

Action is already removed here.

 Punch a dimple in the remaining part of the screw and drill a hole for an
EZOUT.

The directions will tell you how they work and what drill size to use.

The remaining part of the screw is usually not frozen and will come out with
no problem.

You won’t find round head wood screws of that length –diameter without
special order so I replace with ¼” (If I remember the size) hex head lag
screws. Bring the pieces of screw with you to the hardware and match up
diameter and length. (There are two different lengths in each piano!)

In the shop I cut a slot in the head of each screw to accept a large screw
driver as there isn’t much room to use a ratchet and the next technician who
wants to remove the action will thank you. 

Of course by then you’ll be dead and probably not care.

.A little VJ-Teflon on the threads and a backwards turn first and they fall
right in.

This job looks like a nightmare but really is pretty easy.

Best wishes      

Tom Driscoll RPT

 


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