hammer return spring string

[David Ilvedson]

Tom's instructions are what I used...thanks Tom...

David Ilvedson, RPT
Pacifica, CA  94044

----- Original message ----------------------------------------
From: tom <tomtuner at verizon.net>
To: "Pianotech List" <pianotech at ptg.org>
Received: 4/26/2008 7:26:57 PM
Subject: RE: hammer return spring string


> 

> 

>Subject: hammer return spring string

> 

>I have a customer with a nice Yamaha M2 console. The hammer return spring
>strings are all rotten.

>Do I replace all the strings? My first choice. Or, do I replace the butt
>flange assy. (flange, spring, string)?

>Doing that I will probably have to travel the flanges. My guess at time
>would be longer to do the strings alone. All the bushings are moving well.
>No verdigris.

>Any suggestions? Am I looking at 4 to 6 hours or more? How much does a job
>like this run?

>Thanks 

>Steve Kessler

> 


>Steve,

>This is a copy of my post from several years ago with some additions.

> If your piano has butt plates this is my suggestion.

>`

>>From the archives with editing:
> 
>I've done many of these jobs and have posted a method for
> 
>> Replacement of the cords in the past. With input from a tech in Japan,
> 
> 
>> (Sorry, but his name escapes me now) I refined my approach so at the 
> 
>> risk of some redundancy here goes. First, we are assuming that the 
> 
>> pinning is solid, the flanges are well traveled, and the hammers are
> 
>not
> 
>> worn past reshaping. These pianos are usually less than 20 years old
> 
>and
> 
>> If not in a school situation, I've found them to meet these criteria. 
> 
>> With the action in the piano I space hammers tightening the hammer
> 
>flange screws. 
> 
>      Now with the action on the bench and in the cradle,I  tighten all
>remaining screws, reshape hammers
> 
>> and blow out all debris.
> 
>      Remove the hammer rest rail--easily done in
> 
>> this action by unscrewing the hangers from the rail. Next Loosen the 
> 
>> butt plate screws and hang the whole butt-hammer assembly from the 
> 
>> bridle straps without disconnecting them from the bridle wire. (That
> 
>was
> 
>> the tip from our Japanese friend) Now the flanges are exposed for 
> 
>> removing and replacing the cords. I put a small amount of acetone on 
> 
>> the slots and then immediately clean out the old cord and slot with 
> 
>> the chisel point of a small spade drill bit. ( By hand -not chucked in
> 
> 
>> the drill!)  You may have to reapply the solvent as you go. Finish the
> 
> 
>> slot cleanout with a small brass suede brush, and
> 
>compressed air or vac.
> 
>      (I found that the action centers are unchanged by any acetone that
>migrates to the bushing)
> 
>>     Now for the cords. If this is not a gray market piano you can get
>the 
> 
>> cord from Yamaha wrapped around a small cardboard tube. If not 
> 
>> available wrap some silk cord ( avail. From Schaff) around an old #88 
> 
>> key top and slice down the middle. Either way works, but the idea is
> 
>to get 88
> 
>*       cords cut to exact length.
>*        Addendum here .See Joe Goss post on spider wire. I recently went to
>a fly fishing shop and bought some braided line of the same diameter as the
>original cord.
>        
> Now glue one side in the slot -I use
> 
>> titebond- a small amount -and press the cord in the slot with a small 
> 
>> screw driver lining up the end of the cord with the line in the
> 
>flange.
> 
>> By the time you get all 88 done the glue will be set. Go back and glue
> 
> 
>> the other side. Reinstall the hammer-butt assemblies, put the springs
> 
>in
> 
>> the cords, reinstall the rest rail and your done. Two hours max and 
> 
>> less with practice.
> 
>>     The advantage over replacing the flanges is not only time, but
> 
>> it is difficult to travel the new flanges with the dampers in the way.
> 
>> hammer spacing will not change, the old flanges are already
> 
>> Dimensionally stable @ the screw and will not need retightening as
> 
>> soon. 
> 
>>     If this is a worn action with loose pinning then flange
> 
>> replacement is the best way. Also if this is an action without butt
> 
>> plates and the flange is pinned to the butt in my opinion it's less
> 
>> clear which method is best. I've done about quite a few of these and
> 
>> almost all have the butt plate style.  
> 
>>     ` Tom Driscoll
> 
>> 

> 


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