I'll second Paul's recommendation of Wood Rebuilder. It's mind-bogglingly useful stuff, but it stinks to high heaven! If you've ever bondo'd rust on an old car the smell will be very familiar. That being said I carry it with me as part of my regular glue kit. It can be mixed thick and stuffed up into stripped leg or lyre screws without running back out. Since the thicker the mix the faster the set up time, this kind of repair can be ready for re-assembly in a relatively short time. For the little lid hinge screws, mix it up thinner and it will run down the holes(you'll have to remove the lid and position it so it doesn't run out). You'll also have more time to install the screws before it sets up, but you'll still only be able to do a dozen or two at a time. Use a sharp chisel to remove the hardened excess that squeezes out around the screws. - Mark Dierauf Paul McCloud wrote: > <div class="moz-text-flowed" style="font-family: -moz-fixed">Wow! > Another "Hole-iday"! > I'd use mold release on the screws and fill the holes with epoxy to > firm up the wood fibers on smaller holes. You could mortise out > damaged material and install a wooden block, glued in place with > thickened epoxy. Plugs also work, as you suggest. > Filling holes with toothpicks or other kinds of slivers seems to work, > but must have glue (Titebond) to hold them in place. I personally > don't like toothpicks (the soft kind), but prefer to mash a > hammershank with vice-grips and use the splinters (hardwood). > If you have the Webb Phillip's Wood Rebuilder, you can use that to > fill the holes. Spray the screws with mold release, mash the Rebuilder > into the holes and install the screws. You'll have a perfect screw > hole. Just be sure the screw is bottomed out when you first install it > or it will hit bottom before it's tight after the rebuilder hardens. > You could run the screw into the hole without the hinge so it will go > in farther. Then when you install the hinge it will have some extra > room at the bottom of the hole. I love that Wood Rebuilder stuff. > Young Chang has nice metal inserts in the lid for the lockbar screws. > They are inserted using a hex wrench and are machine threaded for the > long screws of the lockbar. Very strong. Would be nice to have such > inserts for all the lid hardware. > I'm sure others will have their suggestions too. Have fun! > > Paul McCloud > San Diego > > > > reggaepass at aol.com wrote: >> List, >> >> With annual "Stripped Screw Hole Day" repidly approaching here at >> CalArts, I would appreciate recommendations for four different >> lid-related screw hole repairs on four different pianos. >> Yamaha C7E: screw holes of female (rim-mounted) lid locator hardware >> (torn out by repeated collisions between lid and immovable object, >> such as wall) >> >> Baldwin F: lid hinge screw holes; the many short ones on the lid >> itself (ditto above cause for damage) >> >> Steinway B: stripped out lock-bar screw holes (don't know how this >> happened) >> >> Steinway D: screw holes in the flyleaf and lid, for the screws that >> fasten the long "piano" hinge (due to over-tightening and/or handling) >> >> I was planning on installing delignit plugs in the rim of the Yamaha >> and glue-sizing (possibly with some non-glue material added) for the >> others. >> >> Thoughts? >> >> Thanks, >> >> Alan Eder >> The Herb Alpert School of Music at CalArts >> >> >> >> ------------------------------------------------------------------------ >> Listen to 350+ music, sports, & news radio stations ? including songs >> for the holidays ? FREE while you browse. Start Listening Now >> <http://toolbar.aol.com/aolradio/download.html?ncid=emlweusdown00000013>! >> > > > </div> >
This PTG archive page provided courtesy of Moy Piano Service, LLC