At 17:05 -0800 25/12/08, Gene Nelson wrote:
>Thanks everyone for your replies.
>Dale, I purchased the capstans from Jurgen at Piano Frote Supply
>several months ago. I thought that the conversion would be simple -
>locate and drill holes and start adjusting - wrong.
>Capstans are one inch long and require some sort of relief cut on
>the tray or counter sink for the upper shoulder of the capstan or
>trimming the bottom threads off or similar.
>I say this only because of the way it appears to fit based on the
>hight of the underlever felt on the tray - thought that getting the
>top of the capstan at the same hight as the felt would be a good
>place to start.
>As with any conversion/modification, it will take a bit more thought
>than I thought.
Here's what I'd do, here's what I _have_ done indeed very roughly,
illustrated below, and you can use either the capstans you've got
from Jurgen, as illustrated here, or plain grand key capstans. The
advantage of the ones you have is that you can use a softer wood for
the L-rail. The hexagon heads are useful only for turning in the
screws, since there's no room for spanners, no matter how
thin-walled,given the spacing of the dampers. There is a better
screw without the hex head still illustrated in many catalogues, but
last time I ordered them, these are what I got. Here I've used a bit
of tulipwood.
Saw or plane off 3/4" or so from the lift rail and make up the L-rail
to glue or screw at the front. This can be made up in two pieces if
you like.
The damper bodies here are full width, so there is no question of the
glue sticking. With thin bodies like the Steinway I'd make the cloth
pieces slightly wider than the wood so as to give a fillet of glue on
each side for greater security. Good hot thickish animal glue, of
course.
All the European versions of this addition I've seen have the
adjusting screw turned into the body, but that's not possible with
the half-width bodies as on Steinways -- anyway the rail is better,
since you're putting no strain on the centres.
JD
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