Ebony finish

Gary Fluke gary.fluke at verizon.net
Thu Jan 3 21:35:52 MST 2008


Thanks, Mark.  #1 sounds like it may be a good and simple fix.  I'll try it as I've got nothing to lose at this stage.


Gary
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Mark Potter 
  To: Pianotech List 
  Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2008 5:12 PM
  Subject: Re: Ebony finish


  Gary -

  Only you can see the condition of the finish, so any suggestions I might make should be taken in lieu of that.  Finishes that are in relatively good condition offer multiple possible remedies, finishes in poor condition offer fewer avenues.  

  It WOULD seem that given your multiple cleaning treatments, surely the finish is free of contaminants, so...  here are some options that come to mind ( I am assuming you do not have spray equipment?):

  1) choose a particularly objectional piece, scuff sand with 320-400, wipe clean w/mineral spirits, liberally apply a dark scratch-cover polish, wipe off after 10-15 minutes or so.  Wait a day or so to see if you like the results. The most low-tech approach, that in the right situation yields pretty good results with very little effort or expense.

  2) as above, but instead of applying scratch cover, apply a thinned wiping varnish.  Several recipes have been advocated on the forum over the years.  May take more than one coat.  May require final rubbing to ensure even sheed thruout.

  3) if above fails, strip and start over. Lotsa work!

  Mark Potter
  West Jefferson, OH


  Gary Fluke <gary.fluke at verizon.net> wrote:
    Greg,

    I tried alchohol but that didn't do it.


    Gary
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: Greg Newell 
      To: 'Pianotech List' 
      Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2008 9:14 PM
      Subject: RE: Ebony finish


      Gary,
                      Could it be that the finish is reacting to the water in the mixture of Murphy's? Would denatured alcohol remove the white "residue"?
      Perhaps it's worth a try if you haven't already.
       
      Greg Newell
      Greg's Piano Forté
      www.gregspianoforte.com
      216-226-3791 (office)
      216-470-8634 (mobile)
       
      From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf Of Gary Fluke
      Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2008 5:44 PM
      To: Pianotech List
      Subject: Re: Ebony finish
       
      Mike,
       
      This piano has been messed about with somehow.  When washing the case with Murphy's Oil Soap the finish turns milky white as if there is a residue of some kind.  I've tried every solvent I have on hand and nothing removes it.  I have scrubbed it with detergents and solvents with a stiff nylon-bristle brush with no luck.  If it weren't for this problem, I would leave it in natural wood.  But, since I'll have to strip it, I'm considering the ebony finish.  Thanks for your input.
       
       
      Gary
        ----- Original Message ----- 
        From: Michael Magness 
        To: Pianotech List 
        Sent: Monday, December 31, 2007 5:18 PM
        Subject: Re: Ebony finish
         
         
        On Dec 31, 2007 11:50 AM, Gary Fluke <gary.fluke at verizon.net> wrote:
        I have a Mason and Hamlin console from 1957.  The walnut finish could stand to be done over again.  These pianos were also available in an ebony finish when new.  How would one apply an ebony finish to my piano? 
         
         
        Gary Fluke
        Snohomish, WA

        Walnut is a nice looking wood even by todays standards, when refinished right. The work it would take to re-do it in ebony would certainly be as much if not more as redoing it in it's "original" color. Everyone isn't looking for Oak or Cherry there are those who still believe that classic woods like walnut, pecan, even black walnut and other less used woods today are still classics. 
         
        A friend who used to, every so often, get a blonde beater from a school or church, would redo them in ebony simply because no one wanted blonde pianos. Stripping a blonde piano to the point where it will accept a decent stain is usually more trouble than it is worth because they have so much filler in them. He would use bondo to fill the nicks and gouges, coat it with a primer then several coats of black lacquer and 3 or 4 coats of clearcoat. 

        Mike
        -- 
        The secret to creativity is knowing how to hide your sources.
        Michael Magness
        Magness Piano Service
        608-786-4404
        www.IFixPianos.com
        email mike at ifixpianos.com 

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