bridge recapping tools

Gene Nelson nelsong at pbic.net
Sat Jan 12 07:15:56 MST 2008


Curious why the advice not to plane a laminated cap. Just appearance or 
concern about delamination if a layer is excessively thin? or?
Gene
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Farrell" <mfarrel2 at tampabay.rr.com>
To: "Pianotech List" <pianotech at ptg.org>
Sent: Friday, January 11, 2008 6:13 PM
Subject: Re: bridge recapping tools


> Good point Ron N made about not planing down the top of the laminated 
> bridge. I always plane my root to height and then bond the laminated cap 
> to it.
>
> If it is difficult to get a template off the old bridge, sure just start 
> from scratch. Chances are that the originals were not perfect anyway - 
> this'll give you a chance to straighten things out. Straighted the unisons 
> out, measure new speaking lengths (some may change a bit) and then 
> rescale.
>
> And if you wish, I can cut you some very nice perfectly quartered solid 
> hard maple for your caps.
>
> Terry Farrell
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Bob Hull" <hullfam5 at yahoo.com>
> To: "Pianotech List" <pianotech at ptg.org>
> Sent: Friday, January 11, 2008 3:54 PM
> Subject: Re: bridge recapping tools
>
>
>> Thanks for the info, Ron.
>>
>> Now to try to make templates on top of oblonged bridge pin holes..no 
>> precision to be found there....  Or to decide to start from scratch 
>> laying out the unisons.
>>
>> Bob Hull
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----
>> From: Ron Nossaman <rnossaman at cox.net>
>> To: Pianotech List <pianotech at ptg.org>
>> Sent: Friday, January 11, 2008 2:12:53 PM
>> Subject: Re: bridge recapping tools
>>
>>
>>
>>> I must dive in to my first treble bridge recapping job.  I
>>> have only done a bass bridge thus far and it was only
>>> beveled, not notched.  Maybe the difficulty of this job
>>> can be taken down a few notches if I get the best tools and
>>> wonder what you would recommend.
>>
>> Which tools are best is written in the blood stains of the user.
>>
>>
>>> I have looked at the Mazzaglia website and saw: Bridge pin
>>> tri-punches Massive chisels Bearing saw Bearing gauges
>>> Bearing lines Notch tool - for cutting and cleaning the
>>> sides of the notches Bridge capping washers - is this for
>>> putting pressure on the joint while gluing on the new cap?
>>
>> Below is a photo of my notching tools. Pin punches are easily
>> made from scrap 1/4" Plexiglass, and easily re-made if you
>> don't like the first test. Do, by the way, test on a mock up
>> before committing on the actual bridge. Go for about a 10°
>> offset angle.
>>
>> I cut notch sides with the knife (with nicely curved edge) and
>> a hammer (producing the dents on the knife's spine in the
>> photo). This works as well for me as anything I've tried.
>>
>> Some folks like a really heavy mortising chisel, some like the
>> Japanese chisels. I like a long blade (paring chisel), and
>> considerable overall length. Mine is 12-3/8" (135mm) long,
>> with a 6-1/2" (165mm) blade, 7/8 (23mm) wide. Any of these
>> will work. It's a matter of personal preference and control.
>>
>>
>>> Do you recommend PianoTek's bridge capping material or who
>>> else.
>>
>> If you're planning on planing the new cap to finish thickness,
>> stick with solid maple instead of laminated. The Pianotek
>> stock should be fine.
>>
>>
>>> I have read Bob Hohf's article on Bridge Recapping - not
>>> artilcle more like a book.  Is there another good writing
>>> on this ? - need something concise I know I'm going to
>>> have a lot of questions on this and will also look over the
>>> archives.
>>
>> The Journal reprints on CD has a bunch of stuff.
>>
>> Ron N
>>
>>
>>
>> ____________________________________________________________________________________
>> Never miss a thing.  Make Yahoo your home page.
>> http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
>>
>
>
>
> 




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