Curious why the advice not to plane a laminated cap. Just appearance or concern about delamination if a layer is excessively thin? or? Gene ----- Original Message ----- From: "Farrell" <mfarrel2 at tampabay.rr.com> To: "Pianotech List" <pianotech at ptg.org> Sent: Friday, January 11, 2008 6:13 PM Subject: Re: bridge recapping tools > Good point Ron N made about not planing down the top of the laminated > bridge. I always plane my root to height and then bond the laminated cap > to it. > > If it is difficult to get a template off the old bridge, sure just start > from scratch. Chances are that the originals were not perfect anyway - > this'll give you a chance to straighten things out. Straighted the unisons > out, measure new speaking lengths (some may change a bit) and then > rescale. > > And if you wish, I can cut you some very nice perfectly quartered solid > hard maple for your caps. > > Terry Farrell > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Bob Hull" <hullfam5 at yahoo.com> > To: "Pianotech List" <pianotech at ptg.org> > Sent: Friday, January 11, 2008 3:54 PM > Subject: Re: bridge recapping tools > > >> Thanks for the info, Ron. >> >> Now to try to make templates on top of oblonged bridge pin holes..no >> precision to be found there.... Or to decide to start from scratch >> laying out the unisons. >> >> Bob Hull >> >> ----- Original Message ---- >> From: Ron Nossaman <rnossaman at cox.net> >> To: Pianotech List <pianotech at ptg.org> >> Sent: Friday, January 11, 2008 2:12:53 PM >> Subject: Re: bridge recapping tools >> >> >> >>> I must dive in to my first treble bridge recapping job. I >>> have only done a bass bridge thus far and it was only >>> beveled, not notched. Maybe the difficulty of this job >>> can be taken down a few notches if I get the best tools and >>> wonder what you would recommend. >> >> Which tools are best is written in the blood stains of the user. >> >> >>> I have looked at the Mazzaglia website and saw: Bridge pin >>> tri-punches Massive chisels Bearing saw Bearing gauges >>> Bearing lines Notch tool - for cutting and cleaning the >>> sides of the notches Bridge capping washers - is this for >>> putting pressure on the joint while gluing on the new cap? >> >> Below is a photo of my notching tools. Pin punches are easily >> made from scrap 1/4" Plexiglass, and easily re-made if you >> don't like the first test. Do, by the way, test on a mock up >> before committing on the actual bridge. Go for about a 10° >> offset angle. >> >> I cut notch sides with the knife (with nicely curved edge) and >> a hammer (producing the dents on the knife's spine in the >> photo). This works as well for me as anything I've tried. >> >> Some folks like a really heavy mortising chisel, some like the >> Japanese chisels. I like a long blade (paring chisel), and >> considerable overall length. Mine is 12-3/8" (135mm) long, >> with a 6-1/2" (165mm) blade, 7/8 (23mm) wide. Any of these >> will work. It's a matter of personal preference and control. >> >> >>> Do you recommend PianoTek's bridge capping material or who >>> else. >> >> If you're planning on planing the new cap to finish thickness, >> stick with solid maple instead of laminated. The Pianotek >> stock should be fine. >> >> >>> I have read Bob Hohf's article on Bridge Recapping - not >>> artilcle more like a book. Is there another good writing >>> on this ? - need something concise I know I'm going to >>> have a lot of questions on this and will also look over the >>> archives. >> >> The Journal reprints on CD has a bunch of stuff. >> >> Ron N >> >> >> >> ____________________________________________________________________________________ >> Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page. >> http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs >> > > > >
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