At 11:36 -0600 16/1/08, Ron Nossaman wrote: >>If a good knurler is used and the shanks are properly knurled, >>there is no problem in dry fitting them in such a way that they can >>be aligned fore and aft etc. Then the expansion of the shank makes >>a tight fit to the hammer bore hole, as you say. >> >>Jurgen Goering >Yes, pulling the hammer back to the drill angle and away from where >you had it aligned. At least that was my experience. That would be my experience too if I relied on other people boring my hammers, but I haven't bought bored hammer heads for over 20 years and when I fit them they need no "fore and aft adjustment" -- I want them to be where the boring tells them to be because that's the right place, which give the angle I have calculated and according to which I have bored the hammers. I don't want or need any slack. I bore the hammers so that the shanks as I get them are a tight fit in the bore. As I come to glue each hammer I knurl it so that it will be sufficiently loose in the bore for about half a minute after the glue has touched the knurling. Any radial adjustment is done within this time frame. If occasionally more force is needed than would be good for the centre, then I grip the shank with a pair of smooth broad-jawed pliers. JD
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