Jim In short: Just cut of a convenient lenght of the same wire to make a reamer and make a pointed end at the other part. Ream the bushed flange and test the result on the smooth part of the reamer. When you are done reaming and calibrating pull the reamer out and draw the long wire through. Cut the wire flush at the sides of the flange. In that way you have the same diameter center pin as the reamer. It is important to make a nice smooth graduation of thickness of the point and to pull it though not too fast. I have done a lot of repinning with the long wires until the wires became very uneven in thickness across their lenghts and also had different diameters per size. Arnold ----- Original Message ----- From: jim ialeggio To: pianotech at ptg.org Sent: Thursday, April 02, 2009 4:53 PM Subject: [pianotech] Long european center pIns? While we're on the subject of centers, As I work on honing my centering processes, I've ordered some long center pins from Jurgen, curious about the how they behave. One part mystifies me. As I understand it, you point and rough up one end of the pin to ream, draw the whole shebang (flange and birdseye) the length of the long wire, burnishing in one direction (I guess generating some heat as well). How the devil do you draw the birdseye that distance without it being or becoming too loose (not to mention reamed)...or if the birdseye's not too loose, don't you do a number on your hands pulling(or rather hauling) it along that distance? I have heard some reports of the initial (frustrating) drop in friction being eliminated with this process. Any exerience on this? Jim -- grandpianosolutions.com Shirley, MA (978) 425-9026 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://ptg.org/pipermail/pianotech_ptg.org/attachments/20090403/09459220/attachment.html>
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