Hi Emerson, Due to its high density, pressurized construction, and number of glue joints, the suggested bit size for Delignit and Falconwood pinblocks is the letter I (that is, capital I as in Island). The decimal size is 0.272"; anything smaller relative to 2/0 pins will cause a higher than necessary tuning pin torque IMO. Set your drill press speed to about 1000 rpms give or take a bit, depending on how your pulleys and belts combine. Since other well-intentioned posts have offered different bit sizes ranging from 0.257" on up to my suggested 0.272" you may be understandably confused. FWIW, I have used Delignit almost exclusively for 30 years. So, to satisfy yourself (and I must conclude that you have some familiarity with turning pins in a pinblock and tuning?), try the different bits in Delignit scrap, drive in some 2/0 by 2-3/8" pins (allow for plate thickness and a bit more) test with a tuning hammer and choose what you like. In my experience the smaller bits, such as the 0.257, and 0.261 are more suitable for high quality maple blocks and other similar varieties. Delignit and Falconwood exist in a density class of their own. It is not my practice to drill in two passes using a smaller bit to start. Others are convinced of the superiority of this practice. Again, make some tests and satisfy yourself. Remember that the initial torque will usually be higher than it will be later on. But in my experience, torque values in high-density blocks change little compared to less dense stuff. Delignit blocks I have installed thirty years ago still tune like champs. Set up your shop vac or other suction machine to remove the chips during drilling. Set the suction tube attachment (or whatever) as close to the bit as is practicable. You should see most of the chips going airborne into the hose/tube. Air being sucked in the area of the bit will also move across the spinning bit and will keep the bit cool enough for a consistent, non-burning operation. As has been suggested, try out the feed (speed of drilling the hole) in some Delignit scrap, but start out with about 4 or 5 seconds to drill through to the bottom. If you feel the block resisting your feed rate back off until your feel a smooth and continuous sensation. If an unhindered feed rate takes longer than 6 seconds you may need more rpms (or else your bit isn't sharp enough). By increasing and decreasing the feed rate thusly, you will find the right feed rate for your bit and your spindle rpms. You MUST have a sharp bit or you will ruin the job. Get a new letter I bit to try out. The best type is a fast-spiral, wide-flute bit as offered by piano supply companies; or do an online search for same. Fast spiral drills are used in relatively high feed rate applications under relatively low spindle speeds, and where removal of a large volume of material is required in the shortest amount of time. Be sure to drill the holes at the lean-back angle as you find in the original block. However, if you find that angle to be much greater or less than 85 degrees, a good rule of thumb is to use the 85 degrees (sometimes referred to as 5 degrees ----- i.e., 90 - 5 = 85 degrees). The pin angle has been a topic of debate with experienced rebuilders, and strong positions have been taken for and against absolutes, or for and against changing the angle in different sections of the scale, but if you follow this plan you will be well in the ballpark. It is not required to glue the block in, but make sure it is securely screwed in with at least 1 large counter-sunk screw in the base and two such screws in the treble. Good luck. Nick Gravagne, RPT Piano Technicians Guild Member Society Manufacturing Engineers Voice Mail 928-476-4143 _____ From: Emerson at diprete-eng.com To: pianotech at ptg.org Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2009 11:15:01 -0400 Subject: [pianotech] Drilling a Pin Block. I must start by saying I am new to this list as well as new to rebuilding piano's so please excuse my ignorance. I am rebuilding a 5 ft. McPhail grand and have a couple of questions regarding pin block drilling and installation. The new pin block material is DELIGNIT PIN BLOCK material and seems to me to be the hardest wood known to man. I am curious if anyone out there has a particular speed setting for the drill press and how different speeds affect the size of the hole. Currently I am using #2 pins and a .266 drill. Another question would be do I need to glue the block in? I don't believe it was glued previously. Thanks Emerson Torrey _____ Windows From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf Of Bruce Dornfeld Sent: Monday, April 06, 2009 9:18 AM To: pianotech Subject: [pianotech] Drilling a pinblock Back in the 1970s, when I got Falconwood pinblocks from Cliff Geers, it came with a booklet about installation. Originally he was the only supplier of this dense kind of pinblock in the US, if I recall. I do not know how the density of the Falconwood differs from the Delignit. They recommended using a .272" drill of the high helix variety. They also suggest speeds of 900 to 1000 r.p.m. I would also recommend buying a copy of the Piano Technicians Journal Reprints: Pinblocks and Plates and searching this list's archives for more ideas, there is plenty there! Good luck, Bruce Dornfeld, RPT bdornfeld at earthlink.net North Shore Chapter -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... 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