[pianotech] Pin size

[Steven Hopp]

Chuck,

 

Thank you for such a detailed reply.  Your time and experience is invaluable.  I am going to try this on my practice uprights at the store.  I have one question  =  Correcto me if I am wrong:  Aren't pinblocks drilled at a specific angle?  How does one increase the size of the hole without drastically changing the degree angle of the original?  I can't draw freehand so I can't imagine being successful at enlarging the pinhole without seeing where I was going.  

 

Steven Hopp

Midland, TX
 


Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 20:36:47 -0500
From: behmpiano at gmail.com
To: pianotech at ptg.org
Subject: Re: [pianotech] Pin size

Steven - I repin 3 or 4 pianos a winter. Here in Iowa, dryness of the winter air really makes pinblocks shrink up, often to the point where CA glue doesn't seem to have a lasting effect. If the strings are not brittle (no missing or tied ones in evidence), and the tone is not an issue, I usually recommend keeping the old strings. Sometimes with an older piano with a tubby sounding bass, I'll recommend replacing the bass strings, and keeping the treble.
    When I repin an upright or grand, I like to use a size three drill (not a reamer - I've never liked those) to cut a fresh cut in the hole, and then pound in a size 4 pin. I've tried different combinations of drills and reamers and pins over the years, and this is the combination that I'm usually the most satisfied with. Other technicians, of course, will have their preferences. Experiment to find what works the best for you.
     To save the old string, back the pin up about a half turn and pry the becket out of the hole in the pin. Use a string hook to gently pull the coil off of the pin and pull it slightly to the side. For treble strings which usually come in pairs, back the tension off of one set of strings at a time. Remove the coils from both the pins, then slowly back each of the pins out (if you're using a drill). 
     Drill in and out with the size 3 drill to get a fresh cut, then put the each of the coils on a new pin. Hold the becket slightly away from the pin to avoid scratching the side of the pin. Line up the becket with the hole in the pin, and crimp it into the hole with a pair of pliers.
     Line the pin up with the hole and tap to start. Pull the pin upright before pounding in (don't walk it in at an angle). I have sliver of rubber wedge taped to the side of my punch to set the depth of the pin.
    Now, with both pins pounded in, increase the tension, going back and forth between the two pins to avoid pulling the string around the hitch pin. Check the tension by comparing to the remaining string or strings, then move on to the next set. Watch for singletons.
    This is just my approach, Steven. I've done it for years this way, it's the way my dad did it, and I'm probably too old to learn new tricks. I'm sure there are other technicians with drastically different methods which may work better for you. Be open to suggestions and try to learn from everyone you meet.  Chuck
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