[pianotech] Pin size

[Dean May]

If you hold the drill loosely the original hole will act as a pilot and
self-center the bit.

 

Dean

Dean May             cell 812.239.3359 

PianoRebuilders.com   812.235.5272 

Terre Haute IN  47802

 

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From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf
Of Steven Hopp
Sent: Saturday, April 11, 2009 10:29 PM
To: pianotech at ptg.org
Subject: Re: [pianotech] Pin size

 

Chuck,
 
Thank you for such a detailed reply.  Your time and experience is
invaluable.  I am going to try this on my practice uprights at the store.  I
have one question  =  Correcto me if I am wrong:  Aren't pinblocks drilled
at a specific angle?  How does one increase the size of the hole without
drastically changing the degree angle of the original?  I can't draw
freehand so I can't imagine being successful at enlarging the pinhole
without seeing where I was going.  
 
Steven Hopp
Midland, TX
 

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Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 20:36:47 -0500
From: behmpiano at gmail.com
To: pianotech at ptg.org
Subject: Re: [pianotech] Pin size

Steven - I repin 3 or 4 pianos a winter. Here in Iowa, dryness of the winter
air really makes pinblocks shrink up, often to the point where CA glue
doesn't seem to have a lasting effect. If the strings are not brittle (no
missing or tied ones in evidence), and the tone is not an issue, I usually
recommend keeping the old strings. Sometimes with an older piano with a
tubby sounding bass, I'll recommend replacing the bass strings, and keeping
the treble. 

    When I repin an upright or grand, I like to use a size three drill (not
a reamer - I've never liked those) to cut a fresh cut in the hole, and then
pound in a size 4 pin. I've tried different combinations of drills and
reamers and pins over the years, and this is the combination that I'm
usually the most satisfied with. Other technicians, of course, will have
their preferences. Experiment to find what works the best for you.

     To save the old string, back the pin up about a half turn and pry the
becket out of the hole in the pin. Use a string hook to gently pull the coil
off of the pin and pull it slightly to the side. For treble strings which
usually come in pairs, back the tension off of one set of strings at a time.
Remove the coils from both the pins, then slowly back each of the pins out
(if you're using a drill). 

     Drill in and out with the size 3 drill to get a fresh cut, then put the
each of the coils on a new pin. Hold the becket slightly away from the pin
to avoid scratching the side of the pin. Line up the becket with the hole in
the pin, and crimp it into the hole with a pair of pliers.

     Line the pin up with the hole and tap to start. Pull the pin upright
before pounding in (don't walk it in at an angle). I have sliver of rubber
wedge taped to the side of my punch to set the depth of the pin.

    Now, with both pins pounded in, increase the tension, going back and
forth between the two pins to avoid pulling the string around the hitch pin.
Check the tension by comparing to the remaining string or strings, then move
on to the next set. Watch for singletons.

    This is just my approach, Steven. I've done it for years this way, it's
the way my dad did it, and I'm probably too old to learn new tricks. I'm
sure there are other technicians with drastically different methods which
may work better for you. Be open to suggestions and try to learn from
everyone you meet.  Chuck

 

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