Barbara, I also use a very thin epoxy (Rot Doctor is one example, there are others) which also works very well. I apply it with a small brush to the entire notched area and make sure it gets down into the cracks. It penetrates deep into the bridge and fortifies it from further damage. Al -------------------------------------------------- From: "Barbara Richmond" <piano57 at comcast.net> Sent: Monday, November 30, 2009 6:57 PM To: "pianotech" <pianotech at ptg.org> Subject: [pianotech] treating bridges with CA > Greetings list, > > When I serviced a church's Yamaha C-6 (beyond warranty) for the first time > a few years ago, the lower treble section was wildly out of tune. I tuned > like crazy and was satisfied with how I left the piano. About six or seven > weeks later, I happened to get called to tune the same piano for a music > competition. I thought, "Ha, this is going to be a piece of cake." Ahem. > Though the same section wasn't as badly out of tune this time, I was > disappointed with what I found. Yes, there had been a change in season > (late fall to no-doubt-about-it winter), but still, the out-of-tuneness > wasn't the usual seasonal pattern. I had a look at the bridge; there were > cracks--not huge (yet). The church wasn't a regular account of mine, but I > mentioned to the person in charge that there was a problem that could get > worse. She was interested in my opinion and asked me to make an estimate. > I recommended CAing the bridge and installing a DC system. It's sort of a > long story (I won't go into it), but eventually the person in charge > started calling me to do the work there and I was asked to do something > about the bridge. Unfortunately, they opted out of the DC system. > > So, I arrived to CA the bridge. Even with the right applicator, CAing can > be tricky. I was very careful, but still, it's tight quarters working > around strings & bridge pins, and it's a challenge to keep CA glue from > contacting the strings. When a couple or more drops didn't go where they > were intended, I decided if I was going to sin, I'd sin boldly (thank you > Martin Luther). I thought about some key buttons that went through big > seasonal changes that I had treated with CA when I rebushed them. What an > improvement it made in reducing the swelling and shrinking (thank you, Dan > Tassin.) I also thought about Ed Foote telling about treating the wood > part of old Teflon parts with epoxy and what a difference it made in > reducing the clicks caused by seasonal changes. So, I decided to be bold > and apply the CA ever so slightly below the top surface of the bridge and > have it wick in and up to the bridge pin holes. Then I applied enough CA > so the remainder of the notching was all the same color. I was looking > forward to the next time I tuned the piano to see if my efforts would > improve the tuning stability in the section, but then there was one of > those political bru-ha-has at the church (one of the musicians didn't know > I was the person who had been working on the pianos, found out, and was > angry that he hadn't been consulted)--so I won't be back there on a > regular basis. Well, these things happen, but I'm mostly disappointed that > I can't track the results of my bet--work--experiment--whatever you want > to call it. > > Fast forward to today. I got called to come to another church and another > 7 foot piano (this time an 18 year old Kawai) that is developing those > little cracks in the treble bridge--not as bad as the Yamaha, but still a > concern. Here's my opportunity to give it another try. My aim/goal the > first time was to: > > 1 Keep further damage from occurring. > 2 Help keep false beats at bay. > 3 See if the treatment helps tuning stability. > > Has anyone else CA'd a bridge this way and had the opportunity to see the > results of your work? Comments? > > Thanks, > > Barbara Richmond, RPT > near Peoria, Illinois > > > > > > >
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