[pianotech] Replacing plastic elbows

[Thomas Cole]

It's a minor point, but if you put the pliers, or vice-grips, at the top 
of the old elbow, you might find that this is not at the top of the 
threads. With the pliers in place you can crush off the old and melt it 
into the new. Now this assumes the mold for new elbows is an exact copy 
of the old.

Tom Cole

ps: Use a grand damper rack to hold the drop lifter wires in order and 
you'll have even less lost motion adjusting to do.

Jim Busby wrote:
>
> Yes! That is how. Good advice. Just measure one and adjust lost motion 
> right away to get a feel for where everything is. One of those butane 
> “windproof” lighters (that are worthless to align shanks with) 
> actually heats up good, if you don’t have a torch.
>
> Jim
>
> *From:* pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] 
> *On Behalf Of *paul bruesch
> *Sent:* Monday, December 07, 2009 9:15 PM
> *To:* pianotech at ptg.org
> *Subject:* Re: [pianotech] Replacing plastic elbows
>
> For the replacement elbows... a while back, someone suggested heating 
> the drop wire with a propane torch, then stuffing it into the new 
> elbow. I've done this, holding the wire with my big electrician's 
> pliers right at the top of the threads. Assuming the threads end at a 
> uniform distance, and everything else being equal (elbow dimensions, 
> old elbow position relative to the threads) it works out very quick 
> and slick. The wire does not have to be incredibly hot, and in fact 
> should not be in order for it to accurately follow the hole.
>
> Paul Bruesch
> Stillwater, MN
>
> On Mon, Dec 7, 2009 at 9:58 PM, Tom Driscoll <tomtuner at verizon.net 
> <mailto:tomtuner at verizon.net>> wrote:
>
>     -----
>
>     Dear Friends,
>
>     I have a Lester spinet action belonging to a long-time customer on
>     my bench (that is, my dining room table) that needs new elbows. I
>     thought replacing the original plastic elbows would be easy, but
>     only the broken ones are brittle; the unbroken ones are hard as
>     concrete. How do you replace these? Unpin them to put the new ones
>     on? I don't want to risk breaking the wippen by trying to bend the
>     old plastic ones. I'd be grateful for your advice, and my wife
>     will be thrilled to get the dining room table back.
>     Thanks,
>     Greg Livingston
>     PS- I have not figured out how to search the archives, though I've
>     tried; I need help in that area, too.
>
>     Greg,
>
>     Tom Driscoll here from the Boston chapter.
>
>     Yes do them all.
>
>     Don't bend the old elbows. There are several methods for removal
>     but usually they shatter when cut with a set of diagonal pliers.
>     Be carefull around the center pin where it engages the whipen. The
>     wood is very thin there but if the elbow is brittle it can be
>     either crushed with needle nose pliers or clipped out in pieces
>     with the flush cutter pliers used to trim center pins. If I
>     rembember Jon Page has a modified tool for this job. Jon ?
>
>     Brittle is good for removal---soft and gooey not as easy
>
>     .I use the Vagias snap in elbows and leave the pin alone.Spin the
>     drop wire into all the elbows equally and as close to the overall
>     length of the old assembly .Less regulation later.
>
>     I used to do three or four a year but most of these have been
>     replaced or sent to heaven. It is the rare elbow job that comes my
>     way of late.
>
>     Remember that Betsey welcomes all of her childen home eventually!
>
>     Have fun,
>
>     Tom Driscoll
>