Thanks, John. Good reminders about reversibility and future work. Pianos have long lives, and we should all be aware of the long-term implications of what we do. I find the sharps are about 1/32" less than 1/2" above the naturals when bottoms of keys are lined up. They were set up at exactly 1/2" above naturals when on the frame when I got the action, and everything worked fine with old parts, so it looks like I may be OK. Hopefully increasing key heights throughout to get full dip will not affect things too much. Time will tell! Paul -- Paul Milesi Registered Piano Technician (RPT) Piano Technicians Guild (202) 667-3136 (202) 246-3136 Cell E-mail: paul at pmpiano.com Website: http://www.pmpiano.com Address: 3000 7th Street NE, Apt. 204 Washington, DC 20017-1402 > From: John Delacour <JD at Pianomaker.co.uk> > Reply-To: <pianotech at ptg.org> > Date: Sun, 13 Dec 2009 09:31:56 +0000 > To: <pianotech at ptg.org> > Subject: Re: [pianotech] Effects of replacing keytops without routing down > keysticks > > At 02:51 -0500 13/12/09, Paul Milesi wrote: > >> ...With replacement keytops mentioned above, will I be able to make >> this action work after installing all new frame felts and new S&S >> hammers, shanks, flanges, wippens, let-off regulating buttons? >> Should I expect the worst, or might tolerances be wide enough that >> I can put a proper regulation on it? Are we ever lucky enough that >> when keytops have been replaced without routing keystick, the action >> still works? > > It's many years since I used ready-made key-coverings, which I think > are quite a bit thicker than the 1/16"/1.6mm tops you mention, but I > never reduced the wood underneath. If you do that and someone later > wants to recover the keys in something nicer then they have a big > problem. You, also, have as great a problem if you don't do the job > to extremely fine tolerances. What I used to do is remove the 36 > sharps (a sharp tap with a hammer with the key held in the vice > usually works), shim up the ebony with veneer and glue them back on > with animal glue. Even this is just cosmetic, to end up with the key > woods all level. For a cheap job just thicker balance washers for > the sharps will do the job. If the white tails foul the fall when > the keys are at the proper level, then plane down the fall 1-2 mm. > That way the whole job is easily reversible if anyone in future wants > to redo it. The only difference it will make to the regulation is > that the very slight extra weight of the replacements will very > slightly lighten the touch. There's no reason why the modifications > would make a scrap of difference to the regulation. > > JD > > > >
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