Hi, Paul: Usually, wedges are used in the ends of the lyre supports, where they enter the top block and lyre box. In addition to glue, these wedges provide a very tight joint. Now that the block has been split, the original strength of that joint has been compromised. Even though you have reglued the block, I'd be a little apprehensive about the strength of it. Sometimes there is a screw driven into the joint, which on the surface appears to add to the strength, but in fact doesn't do much at all. Putting new wedges into the ends of the supports is absolutely necessary for the strength of that joint. If you didn't remove the supports before you glued the top block together, I'd be concerned about it. I would have disassembled the entire joint, reglued (and doweled) the top block first. Then removed the wedges (assuming that they were there to begin with), inserted the supports with glue and driven in new wedges. I would use epoxy only, no wood glue. Once a wood glue joint has been broken, adding more wood glue won't hold. It needs fresh wood, and doesn't fill gaps well enough to provide strength. Will your repair hold for the next concert? Probably, assuming you have the pedal supports tightened properly. The pedal box must have absolutely no movement whatsoever when you push on it. Especially since your current glue joint is unsupported with any dowels. If the pedal box is secure and doesn't wobble, you probably won't have any problem. But if it moves slightly, the leverage and stress on the joint may break it again. My take. Paul McCloud San Diego > [Original Message] > From: Paul Milesi, RPT <paul at pmpiano.com> > To: PTG Pianotech List <pianotech at ptg.org>; PTG CAUT List <caut at ptg.org> > Date: 04/29/2010 5:45:27 AM > Subject: [pianotech] Glue Strength for Pedal Lyre Repair > > Advice sought ASAP. One of my high-profile clients, an embassy here in DC, > tried to move a 1917 Steinway B off a 2' stage without professional mover or > counsel and broke the lyre off. :( Broke the top block in half the long > way, right along where the two rear screws go in. Clean break, but left > half the block and plate attached to the piano, and of course the lyre on > the floor. > > Piano is needed for concert Saturday 10 AM! A couple techs here advised > gluing original block with Titebond. Thought this might be adequate, as > glue joint will be stronger than wood. I confess I have limited woodworking > experience, so still find it difficult to put my faith in a glue joint being > that strong. :) When I expressed doubt, it was suggested that I might > possibly drill from rear of block to install two 1/2" or 3/4" dowels, > stopping short of front of block, for reinforcement. > > This morning I unclamped the lyre block after 24 hours and my glue repair > appears solid. Can I put the lyre on for Saturday's concert and trust it > not to fall apart? I don't have access to a drill press until early next > week. Might I try to drill 1/2" or 3/8" for dowel freehand with hand drill? > Or should I leave well enough alone? > > By the way, I have thought about borrowing a lyre from a school piano and > seeing if it fits. Just a fallback position. Might I make it work easily? > Not my first choice, but emergency situation with very limited time to work > with making me think outside the box a bit. Schedule jammed every day this > week with performance work, so somewhat stressed! Didn't need this kind of > repair/worry. > > Thanks for any advice. > > Paul Milesi, RPT > Washington, DC > (202) 667-3136 > E-mail: paul at pmpiano.com > Website: http://www.pmpiano.com >
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