[pianotech] Key wood prep....was....Applying PVC-E

David Weiss davidweiss at embarqmail.com
Fri Jan 1 20:08:18 MST 2010


I use a setup that was pictured in the Journal November 2003, page 10.  It
is a router sled setup.  It works very well.

 

David Weiss

 

From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf
Of erwinspiano at aol.com
Sent: Friday, January 01, 2010 8:59 PM
To: pianotech at ptg.org
Subject: Re: [pianotech] Key wood prep....was....Applying PVC-E

 

Dear Miss Piano Lady.

  Thanks you for the detailed A-B comparison test. It is as informative as
many other reponses here. Mike Morvan, thanks for sharing your vast amount
of keyboard experience, we are all the wiser, now send me some plastic
keytop glue!

 

 On a different subject, how do all of you mill and prepare the top of the
key prior to gluing on tops.

 In the past we have used a Wagner power planner but am open to other
methods. I found that the power planner works best when new and really
sharp....l.o.l. ,and the drill press table very flat... again...lol. One
issue is that the key thickness from the front to the point the keytop tail
terminates is often a tapering thickness and some form of shimming is needed
under the key front to insure and even planning surface.

 comments?

  Dale Erwin

   





 

Hot off the test bench so please excuse the lack of spreadsheet
organization!

 

Two glues and varying glue methods were used to compare the adhesion
strength of key tops with fronts to the wood keystick.

 

Eight keys were from the same piano and the top and front key wood was
planed to create a clean surface.  Glue was applied with a half inch flat
brush.  Only enough glue was used that would result in minor squeeze-out.  A
fine, broad bladed knife was used to remove the tops/fronts, after drying,
to test adhesion.

 

PVC-E:

 

Straight from the jar, no glue sizing of wood, no clamping, 12 hour dry time
- both top and front adhered well and moderate effort was needed to remove
the key top and front.  Equal wood/glue evident on both surfaces.

 

No sizing, clamped 12 hours in Oslund key clamp - key top and front were
easy to remove and showed very little glue remaining in joint.  

 

Glue sized, no clamping, 12 hour dry time - key top and front required even
less effort than the above to remove.  Glue had not adhered to sized surface
and remained with keytop/front.

 

Sized and clamped in Oslund key clamp, 12 hour dry time in clamp - Best
adhesion although only slightly more difficult to remove than no sizing no
clamping.  Shifting of top in clamp required extra diligence.

 

Mike's Euro Glue (Meuro):

 

Straight from bottle, no sizng, no clamping, 12 hour dry time - moderate
effort needed to remove top and front.  Adequate adhesion.

 

No sizing, clamped in Oslund for 12 hours - same as above.  Good adhesion,
moderate effort needed for removal.

 

Glue sized, no clamping, 12 hour dry time - same result as with PVC-E.  Poor
adhesion leaving glue on equally on both surfaces.

 

Glue sized, clamped in Oslund 12 hours - moderate effort required for
removal, good adhesion.  Didn't shift as much as PVC-E.

 

Some comments:  The Oslund clamp is difficult to use with keytops that have
fronts attached.  However, once the system is figured out and the
appropriate shims are at the ready, it will work and will apply clamping to
both the top and the front simultaneously.  A bit tricky.

 

Both glues, used appropriately, seem to work fine.  I have, in the past,
tried contact cement but I hate the vapors.  I have also experimented with
keytop dissolved in acetone as a glue.  Much practice with timing and
neatness is needed with the acetone mixture and it will easily destroy the
plastic if you get the least bit where it's not wanted.  Also, it is far too
strong a joint making future removal for repairs/replacement a nightmare.

 

Personally, I prefer PVC-E and no glue sizing and no clamping.  Each top
w/front is aligned and is 'stuck' with an even finger pressure moving from
front (head) to back (tail).  Alignment is re-checked and the key is set
aside to dry.  Haven't had a failed joint.  I am sure that Mike has seen
similar results with his glue and his method.  

 

(Yes, I'm keeping my Oslund clamp!)

 

Debbie L.

Rockport, MA

 

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