[pianotech] Key top planing

Duane McGuire pianoman at duanemcguire.com
Fri Jan 1 20:13:47 MST 2010


In one of the PVC-E threads, Dale Erwin asked what is being used for
keytop planing.  Here I will describe what I built recently for my
current project and learning exercise.  I was very pleased with the
operation and accuracy.

I built an overhead router setup based on the concepts presented by
Bill Spurlock in the March 1991 issue of the Journal. His fixture of
the time was based on a drill press rotary planer.  I adapted the
concepts to a the overhead router setup.  One item that is not clear
from the pictures is that a dust collection port is attached to the
rear of the fixture.  I think that is essential.   Notably as built,
it does not address Dale's concern about tapered keys.  The jig
registers on the bottom and side of the key.

Photo A shows the overhead router setup with a key ready for planing.

Photo B shows the key after exiting the jig. Note that the clamping
mechanism is a simple, quick lever which holds adequately and keeps
the process moving. The loose plate between the key and lever is
coated on the lever side with some beads of hot glue, to provide
gripping surface that would not be present in the hard maple. The
router bit is a 1-1/2 diameter flat cutting bit. Since the key is less
than 1 inch across, this diameter provides a cutting surface for both
left side and right side of the key. Order of operation is:

1) With jig against right shoulder insert into about 1/4 inch. move to
the left to plane the front edge of of the key (and the existing key
front).
2) Slide the sled in to plane the left side of the key.
3) Move the sled to the right, forming the nice edge at the back of the key.
4) Pull the sled out to plane the right side of the key.

This order of operation will provide for proper rotation orientation
of the cutterhead and produce a splinter free surface.

The width between sides of the jig is 300 mm. The sled is 262 mm wide.
Other dimensions are determined by the key. Photo C is my working
sketch for building the fixture. It is not an “as built” diagram,
since I went direct from concept to finished product. In particular
the sled and base are longer than indicated in the sketch. They were
built to a more “comfortable” length.

The base and sled are made of melamine faced particle board for
slipperiness. The plated hardware on the front of the slide are
rollers sold as sliding door glides at the local Lowes hardware. The
purpose is to make the cross cut smooth. Also by using the roller
point above the floor of the jig, any chips/debris that the dust
collection misses will not interfere with a true reference to complete
the straight cut at the back of the key.

I found that the simple quick clamp was trouble free and solid for
this key set. Another clamp at the rear of the ivoried section would
provide additional security. I was going for for the min-max of
hardware/accuracy. For this key set it met all of my expectations. I
expect it will evolve some with different key sets in the future.

Photo D is the result.

Full resolution photos are available here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/duanemcguire/sets/72157622759095507/






-- 
Duane McGuire
801-830-5858
http://blog.duanemcguire.com
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