HI Duane Thanks for the pics and the effort to share this. I had forgotten about this. Do you have any of the issues that Greg was sharing by using the side of the key as a reference instead of the bottom? Well done Dale In one of the PVC-E threads, Dale Erwin asked what is being used for eytop planing. Here I will describe what I built recently for my urrent project and learning exercise. I was very pleased with the peration and accuracy. I built an overhead router setup based on the concepts presented by ill Spurlock in the March 1991 issue of the Journal. His fixture of he time was based on a drill press rotary planer. I adapted the oncepts to a the overhead router setup. One item that is not clear rom the pictures is that a dust collection port is attached to the ear of the fixture. I think that is essential. Notably as built, t does not address Dale's concern about tapered keys. The jig egisters on the bottom and side of the key. Photo A shows the overhead router setup with a key ready for planing. Photo B shows the key after exiting the jig. Note that the clamping echanism is a simple, quick lever which holds adequately and keeps he process moving. The loose plate between the key and lever is oated on the lever side with some beads of hot glue, to provide ripping surface that would not be present in the hard maple. The outer bit is a 1-1/2 diameter flat cutting bit. Since the key is less han 1 inch across, this diameter provides a cutting surface for both eft side and right side of the key. Order of operation is: 1) With jig against right shoulder insert into about 1/4 inch. move to he left to plane the front edge of of the key (and the existing key ront). ) Slide the sled in to plane the left side of the key. ) Move the sled to the right, forming the nice edge at the back of the key. ) Pull the sled out to plane the right side of the key. This order of operation will provide for proper rotation orientation f the cutterhead and produce a splinter free surface. The width between sides of the jig is 300 mm. The sled is 262 mm wide. ther dimensions are determined by the key. Photo C is my working ketch for building the fixture. It is not an “as built” diagram, ince I went direct from concept to finished product. In particular he sled and base are longer than indicated in the sketch. They were uilt to a more “comfortable” length. The base and sled are made of melamine faced particle board for lipperiness. The plated hardware on the front of the slide are ollers sold as sliding door glides at the local Lowes hardware. The urpose is to make the cross cut smooth. Also by using the roller oint above the floor of the jig, any chips/debris that the dust ollection misses will not interfere with a true reference to complete he straight cut at the back of the key. I found that the simple quick clamp was trouble free and solid for his key set. Another clamp at the rear of the ivoried section would rovide additional security. I was going for for the min-max of ardware/accuracy. For this key set it met all of my expectations. I xpect it will evolve some with different key sets in the future. Photo D is the result. Full resolution photos are available here: ttp://www.flickr.com/photos/duanemcguire/sets/72157622759095507/ - uane McGuire 01-830-5858 ttp://blog.duanemcguire.com = -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://ptg.org/pipermail/pianotech.php/attachments/20100102/743b1bb9/attachment.htm>
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