I've done exactly one set of keys with it, and it produced a uniform 1 mm deep cut across the key surface. The credit for this result may result in the quality of the keys. I'll watch for issues with the next set of keys. It was nice to see the other approaches out there too. On Sat, Jan 2, 2010 at 8:58 PM, <erwinspiano at aol.com> wrote: > *HI Duane* > * Thanks for the pics and the effort to share this. I had forgotten about > this. Do you have any of the issues that Greg was sharing by using the side > of the key as a reference instead of the bottom?* > * * > * Well done* > * Dale* > > > > In one of the PVC-E threads, Dale Erwin asked what is being used for > keytop planing. Here I will describe what I built recently for my > current project and learning exercise. I was very pleased with the > operation and accuracy. > > I built an overhead router setup based on the concepts presented by > Bill Spurlock in the March 1991 issue of the Journal. His fixture of > the time was based on a drill press rotary planer. I adapted the > concepts to a the overhead router setup. One item that is not clear > from the pictures is that a dust collection port is attached to the > rear of the fixture. I think that is essential. Notably as built, > it does not address Dale's concern about tapered keys. The jig > registers on the bottom and side of the key. > > Photo A shows the overhead router setup with a key ready for planing. > > Photo B shows the key after exiting the jig. Note that the clamping > mechanism is a simple, quick lever which holds adequately and keeps > the process moving. The loose plate between the key and lever is > coated on the lever side with some beads of hot glue, to provide > gripping surface that would not be present in the hard maple. The > router bit is a 1-1/2 diameter flat cutting bit. Since the key is less > than 1 inch across, this diameter provides a cutting surface for both > left side and right side of the key. Order of operation is: > > 1) With jig against right shoulder insert into about 1/4 inch. move to > the left to plane the front edge of of the key (and the existing key > front). > 2) Slide the sled in to plane the left side of the key. > 3) Move the sled to the right, forming the nice edge at the back of the key. > 4) Pull the sled out to plane the right side of the key. > > This order of operation will provide for proper rotation orientation > of the cutterhead and produce a splinter free surface. > > The width between sides of the jig is 300 mm. The sled is 262 mm wide. > Other dimensions are determined by the key. Photo C is my working > sketch for building the fixture. It is not an “as built” diagram, > since I went direct from concept to finished product. In particular > the sled and base are longer than indicated in the sketch. They were > built to a more “comfortable” length. > > The base and sled are made of melamine faced particle board for > slipperiness. The plated hardware on the front of the slide are > rollers sold as sliding door glides at the local Lowes hardware. The > purpose is to make the cross cut smooth. Also by using the roller > point above the floor of the jig, any chips/debris that the dust > collection misses will not interfere with a true reference to complete > the straight cut at the back of the key. > > I found that the simple quick clamp was trouble free and solid for > this key set. Another clamp at the rear of the ivoried section would > provide additional security. I was going for for the min-max of > hardware/accuracy. For this key set it met all of my expectations. I > expect it will evolve some with different key sets in the future. > > Photo D is the result. > > Full resolution photos are available here:http://www.flickr.com/photos/duanemcguire/sets/72157622759095507/ > > > > > > > -- > Duane McGuire > 801-830-5858http://blog.duanemcguire.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://ptg.org/pipermail/pianotech.php/attachments/20100102/619e63e0/attachment.htm>
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