[pianotech] Key top planing

Duane McGuire pianoman at duanemcguire.com
Sat Jan 2 21:28:16 MST 2010


Meant to type "The credit for this result may *rest* in the quality of the
keys."

On Sat, Jan 2, 2010 at 9:21 PM, Duane McGuire <pianoman at duanemcguire.com>wrote:

> I've done exactly one set of keys with it, and it produced a uniform 1 mm
> deep cut across the key surface.  The credit for this result may result in
> the quality of the keys.   I'll watch for issues with the next set of
> keys.   It was nice to see the other approaches out there too.
>
>
> On Sat, Jan 2, 2010 at 8:58 PM, <erwinspiano at aol.com> wrote:
>
>>  *HI Duane*
>> *  Thanks for the pics and the effort to share this. I had forgotten
>> about this. Do you have any of the issues that Greg was sharing by using the
>> side of the key as a reference instead of the bottom?*
>> *  *
>> * Well done*
>> *  Dale*
>>
>>
>>
>> In one of the PVC-E threads, Dale Erwin asked what is being used for
>> keytop planing.  Here I will describe what I built recently for my
>> current project and learning exercise.  I was very pleased with the
>> operation and accuracy.
>>
>> I built an overhead router setup based on the concepts presented by
>> Bill Spurlock in the March 1991 issue of the Journal. His fixture of
>> the time was based on a drill press rotary planer.  I adapted the
>> concepts to a the overhead router setup.  One item that is not clear
>> from the pictures is that a dust collection port is attached to the
>> rear of the fixture.  I think that is essential.   Notably as built,
>> it does not address Dale's concern about tapered keys.  The jig
>> registers on the bottom and side of the key.
>>
>> Photo A shows the overhead router setup with a key ready for planing.
>>
>> Photo B shows the key after exiting the jig. Note that the clamping
>> mechanism is a simple, quick lever which holds adequately and keeps
>> the process moving. The loose plate between the key and lever is
>> coated on the lever side with some beads of hot glue, to provide
>> gripping surface that would not be present in the hard maple. The
>> router bit is a 1-1/2 diameter flat cutting bit. Since the key is less
>> than 1 inch across, this diameter provides a cutting surface for both
>> left side and right side of the key. Order of operation is:
>>
>> 1) With jig against right shoulder insert into about 1/4 inch. move to
>> the left to plane the front edge of of the key (and the existing key
>> front).
>> 2) Slide the sled in to plane the left side of the key.
>> 3) Move the sled to the right, forming the nice edge at the back of the key.
>> 4) Pull the sled out to plane the right side of the key.
>>
>> This order of operation will provide for proper rotation orientation
>> of the cutterhead and produce a splinter free surface.
>>
>> The width between sides of the jig is 300 mm. The sled is 262 mm wide.
>> Other dimensions are determined by the key. Photo C is my working
>> sketch for building the fixture. It is not an “as built” diagram,
>> since I went direct from concept to finished product. In particular
>> the sled and base are longer than indicated in the sketch. They were
>> built to a more “comfortable” length.
>>
>> The base and sled are made of melamine faced particle board for
>> slipperiness. The plated hardware on the front of the slide are
>> rollers sold as sliding door glides at the local Lowes hardware. The
>> purpose is to make the cross cut smooth. Also by using the roller
>> point above the floor of the jig, any chips/debris that the dust
>> collection misses will not interfere with a true reference to complete
>> the straight cut at the back of the key.
>>
>> I found that the simple quick clamp was trouble free and solid for
>> this key set. Another clamp at the rear of the ivoried section would
>> provide additional security. I was going for for the min-max of
>> hardware/accuracy. For this key set it met all of my expectations. I
>> expect it will evolve some with different key sets in the future.
>>
>> Photo D is the result.
>>
>> Full resolution photos are available here:http://www.flickr.com/photos/duanemcguire/sets/72157622759095507/
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Duane McGuire
>> 801-830-5858http://blog.duanemcguire.com
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>


-- 
Duane McGuire
801-830-5858
http://blog.duanemcguire.com
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