[pianotech] Rebuilding tips

David Love davidlovepianos at comcast.net
Tue Jan 12 08:49:17 MST 2010


I started doing it a bit differently a few years back.  I created two wedges
marked with incremental thickness indications (1mm, 2mm, 3mm etc) sort of
like what Ron N uses to slide under the stretched string when you test crown
(which I use these for as well).  The two wedges (picture attached-sorry for
the poor quality) I use are: the smaller one for the string rest area and
the larger one for the bridge top.  I do this procedure, btw, with the
bridge decapped, the bridge screwed to the soundboard and the soundboard
screwed to the rim with the plate height determined and set.   I don't
prestress the board.  The smaller gauge is used for string rest area and the
thickness point at which the string contacts this is calculated based on
the anticipated deflection and the targeted residual bearing.  So if I want
to target say 3 degrees of predeflection bearing then I calculate the string
contact point on the gauge (in millimeters) as .44 x number of degrees x
backscale length (in inches) + the height of the string rest (or height
above the plate of the vertical hitch if there is one).  The number .44 mm
comes from sin of 1 degree = .0175" converted to mm).  Let's say that number
is 5 mm.  I do this, btw, with the bridge decapped and if it's a new board
with the board screwed together and screwed down to the inner rim, the plate
height located.  I don't prestress the board.  So then stretching the string
from the agraffe or capo to the string rest point behind the bridge I rest
the string on the small gauge at the 5 mm point with the gauge sitting where
the string rest will be.  The string is then stretched over the top of the
uncapped bridge and there will be a gap of some distance, of course, over
the bridge.  I take the other gauge and slide it under the string on top of
the uncapped bridge until it just touches the string.   That gauge, btw, is
made about the width of the bridge pin array-though it doesn't really
matter, it should positioned ideally where the strings would be touching the
bridge.  Whatever the thickness of the gauge is at that point is the
thickness of my bridge cap.  I do this along the entire bridge every
whatever marking on the bridge top the thickness of the to be made cap.
Then I make the cap to the desired thickness usually with the front edge of
the bridge about 1 mm higher than the back to insure positive front
bearing-this may vary depending on the piano though.  Typically I make the
bridge about 1 mm higher than needed and then sand it back to the final
desired height.  If you are using laminated bridge caps this allows you to
make the bridge cap the right height to begin with (important) and otherwise
not have to deal with cutting those stupid little slots.  Having a plate
float system and/or vertical hitches gives you some wiggle room should you
need to tweak the final settings later.  

 

 

 

David Love

www.davidlovepianos.com

 

From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf
Of William Truitt
Sent: Monday, January 11, 2010 9:30 PM
To: pianotech at ptg.org
Subject: Re: [pianotech] Rebuilding tips

 

Scoop out the bridge under the string line until the string just grazes the
top of the bridge whilst held tight and down onto the particular shim.  Done
at 3 locations on the bass bridge and about 9 or 10 on the treble bridge.
Then plane the bridge tops down to those markings.

 

Will

 

 

 

From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf
Of David Love
Sent: Monday, January 11, 2010 11:34 PM
To: pianotech at ptg.org
Subject: Re: [pianotech] Rebuilding tips

 

What is your "as usual from there"?

 

David Love

www.davidlovepianos.com

 

 

 I just reach into the box and get the thickness I want, run the string
through the agraffe and  over the bridge, and lower it onto the top of the
shim.  Adjust bridge height as usual from there.  

 

 

Will Truitt

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