David All though this approach is conservative I didn't say it was the onlyest or right way.... just the way we do it. The piano is strung with each wire up to pitch from the git go and no higher. All the strings go on and pitch drops off along ways by the time all the strings are on for obvious reasons. After that there is coil straihtening and gernal tidying up. The first couple chippings Trix applys are 15 minute events using a pitch generating device. It generally sits for a week while we do action work or whatever. Then I go back and pitch it up 15 cents And then go over it again. The I remove wire bends at all the usually spots. ie. agraffes,duplexs,aliquots,bridge pins. This is a huge stabilizing factor. Another close pitch raise and closer tuning and it is beginning to get stable enough to hear it and do some preliminary voicing. Hey Whatever works. No Argument that a tight bridge pin hole is critical to false beat elimination and even as careful as we are, we still get some in the top ocatve. Used to have a stringer who strung with initial pitch starting at a half step & I didn't catch it for a while. And even with tight bridge pins we had Lots of false beats. Dale -----Original Message----- From: David Love <davidlovepianos at comcast.net> To: pianotech at ptg.org Sent: Thu, Jan 21, 2010 3:18 pm Subject: Re: [pianotech] Renotching-Repinning-Reusing Bridges in rebuild That doesn’t square with my experience or procedures. Typically I pull strings 30 – 35 cents sharp when the piano is first strung. Once I get it to stay that sharp then I either let it sit (if I have the time) or go through and start straightening bends and such and that usually drops the pitch down quite a bit. I then do my subsequent over pulls to 20 – 25 cents sharp and with each subsequent tuning over a week or more lower the pitch incrementally until it sits at about 5-10 cents sharp where I try and let it sit for at least another week or so before lowering to pitch. If the piano is off to the finisher then I send it out at 20 – 25 cents sharp and by the time I get it back it’s still a bit flat. Otherwise I gradually with each subsequent tuning lower the over pull be 5-10 cents until I get some stability. Ideally this is done over about a two week period while I’m working on the action. I haven’t had problems with false beats. Interestingly, Arledge’s recommendation is to overpull the string(s) by 30 cents when first installed and let them sit for 48 hours before trying to tune to pitch. Frequently I see pianos that drift more than 15 cents sharp during periods of high humidity and there don’t seem to be any false beats that develop, at least not those associated with deformations of piano wire. I think the falseness comes from something else, usually bridge pin or termination problems. David Love www.davidlovepianos.com From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf Of erwinspiano at aol.com Sent: Thursday, January 21, 2010 5:05 AM To: pianotech at ptg.org Subject: Re: [pianotech] Renotching-Repinning-Reusing Bridges in rebuild 4. We do not over pull new strings more than 15 cents from the git go. We string up to pitch. go back after there all on and bring them up to pitch plus 10 to 15 cents. I feel over stretching wire to be perhaps thee biggest cuplrit to creating false beats especially in the top octaves. It deforms the wire. How do you think Brand S gets the last capo section to sound that crappy and loaded with fase beats. Ok I don't know for sure but from experience I know that's how we used to get them. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://ptg.org/pipermail/pianotech.php/attachments/20100122/a7571f44/attachment.htm>
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