If the shank of the spade bit is smaller than the bolt-sized hole you just
drilled, the bit may chatter around and make a mess. Would be better to
drill the initial hole using a drill bit just slightly larger than the spade
bit shank. This will insure hole will keep the spade bit on center, and the
tee nut will sit square. Then, enlarge the hole from the top to match the
outside diameter of the tee nut only as far as necessary to accommodate it.
The rest of the hole can be enlarged to match the diameter of the bolt.
This thread is a keeper. Good ideas for repair.
Paul McCloud
San Diego
From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf
Of Ken & Pat Gerler
Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2010 6:48 AM
To: pianotech at ptg.org
Subject: [pianotech] Modified Spade Bit was Chickering Pedal Lyre
Not being adept at modifying tools, here is my spade bit.
Ken Gerler
----- Original Message -----
From: David Stocker <mailto:firtreepiano at hotmail.com>
To: pianotech at ptg.org
Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2010 1:59 AM
Subject: Re: [pianotech] Chickering Pedal Lyre
I am inserting this link to show what tee nuts look like. They are better
for this job than countersinking enough for nuts and washers. They are
available in many local hardware stores.
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products.ex?N=999600087
<http://www.fastenal.com/web/products.ex?N=999600087&Nty=0> &Nty=0
Drill a hole through the key bed and lyre the diameter of your bolt.
Take a spade bit like the following the width of your tee nut , and sharpen
the bottom of the spade so that it will cut like the top.
http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hardware-Power-Tool-Accessories-Drill-Bits-Au
ger-Spade/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xh8Zb8mw/R-100352498/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1
<http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hardware-Power-Tool-Accessories-Drill-Bits-A
uger-Spade/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xh8Zb8mw/R-100352498/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&
storeId=10051&catalogId=10053> &storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
Insert the shank of the bit from inside the action cavity through the hole,
and attach it to your drill from below. Use this to counter sink enough so
the tee nut will not interfere with the action. Keep the drill
perpendicular, or your tee nut may not sit straight in the hole.
Use a bolt and washers, just long enough to get a solid grip, but not enough
to gouge the key frame. Same method can be used for legs attached with
screws when the holes are stripped beyond usefulness.
David Stocker, RPT
Tumwater, WA
From: Paul Milesi <mailto:paul at pmpiano.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2010 23:12
To: PTG Pianotech <mailto:pianotech at ptg.org> List
Subject: [pianotech] Chickering Pedal Lyre
I’m having problems with 2 older Chickering grands, one a 1917, the other
from the 30s. The original design attaches their lyres to the underside of
the keybed with two large wood screws put in at an angle of not quite 45º,
and the screws seem to strip out. When I first encountered this design, I
almost couldn’t believe it was used.
What’s the best fix for this? In both cases, previous techs have tried
using larger screws, different angles, different locations, etc., and now
the underside of the keybed is gouged. I’ve read about drilling through the
keybed from the top and countersinking, maybe with a washer, and using a
nut-and-bolt approach? In any case, I don’t think replacing wood and
reproducing the original design is desirable.
Specific guidance appreciated: limited woodworking experience. Thanks!
Paul Milesi, RPT
Washington, DC
(202) 667-3136
E-mail: paul at pmpiano.com
Website: http://www.pmpiano.com
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