[pianotech] Chickering Pedal Lyre

David Ilvedson ilvey at sbcglobal.net
Wed Jan 27 15:27:13 MST 2010


The T-nut will pull nicely down into and below the level of  keybed with just a little wood removed.  

David Ilvedson, RPT
Pacifica, CA  94044

----- Original message ----------------------------------------
From: "David Stocker" <firtreepiano at hotmail.com>
To: pianotech at ptg.org
Received: 1/26/2010 11:59:20 PM
Subject: Re: [pianotech] Chickering Pedal Lyre


>Chickering Pedal LyreI am inserting this link to show what tee nuts look like. They are 
>better for this job than countersinking enough for nuts and washers. They are 
>available in many local hardware stores. 

>http://www.fastenal.com/web/products.ex?N=999600087&Nty=0

>Drill a hole through the key bed and lyre the diameter of your bolt. 

>Take a spade bit like the following the width of your tee nut , and sharpen the 
>bottom of the spade so that it will cut like the top. 

>http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hardware-Power-Tool-Accessories-Drill-Bits-Auge
>r-Spade/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xh8Zb8mw/R-100352498/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&
>storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

>Insert the shank of the bit from inside the action cavity through the hole, and attach 
>it to your drill from below. Use this to counter sink enough so the tee nut will not 
>interfere with the action. Keep the drill perpendicular, or your tee nut may not sit 
>straight in the hole.

>Use a bolt and washers, just long enough to get a solid grip, but not enough to 
>gouge the key frame. Same method can be used for legs attached with screws when 
>the holes are stripped beyond usefulness.


>David Stocker, RPT
>Tumwater, WA


>From: Paul Milesi 
>Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2010 23:12
>To: PTG Pianotech List 
>Subject: [pianotech] Chickering Pedal Lyre


>I'm having problems with 2 older Chickering grands, one a 1917, the other from the 
>30s.  The original design attaches their lyres to the underside of the keybed with 
>two large wood screws put in at an angle of not quite 45º, and the screws seem to 
>strip out.  When I first encountered this design, I almost couldn't believe it was 
>used.

>What's the best fix for this?  In both cases, previous techs have tried using larger 
>screws, different angles, different locations, etc., and now the underside of the 
>keybed is gouged.  I've read about drilling through the keybed from the top and 
>countersinking, maybe with a washer, and using a nut-and-bolt approach?  In any 
>case, I don't think replacing wood and reproducing the original design is desirable.

>Specific guidance appreciated: limited woodworking experience.  Thanks!

>Paul Milesi, RPT
>Washington, DC
>(202) 667-3136
>E-mail:  paul at pmpiano.com
>Website:  http://www.pmpiano.com


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