Hi guys/gals. I thought of adding this option to fix the nastiness, but backed off. How much affect will it have on scaling or tunability if one would move the strings aside, pull the pins; plug the holes and check or re notch notching and re-drill then putting in new pins? It seems logical to me, but then, I"m not awesome on belly work. I have a few here in the same condition; 5 Steinway B's from the late 70's. That nasty low end F-2 and F#-2 above the plate strut is driving me crazy!! It sounds like the sound just disappears into the bathroom or bus depot!! Why is it that the nice old ones from the 20's don't have this odd sound? Why did they mess with a good thing and then keep doing it? How does one fix this? Thanks Paul From: Nicholas Gravagne <ngravagne at gmail.com> To: pianotech at ptg.org Date: 02/04/2011 03:34 PM Subject: Re: [pianotech] Bridge pin locations help (image oops) Hi Gene, >I believe that I learned it from Nick Gravagne.< Probably from a class a gave about 100 years ago in the bay area. Gene, although I don't see Keith doing this repair, I wanted to flesh out your post: I have used this procedure a number of times, but usually where the front notch is in terrible shape. Like when well-meaning techs pull bridge pins so as to "re-notch" and in the process yank out small bits of dead wood which had existed between the pins:( I have thus plugged for one pin, or two, or all three pins using this procedure. A small and simple pattern is sometimes required so as to re-locate (or improve upon) the original pin holes upon the glued-in and trimmed down plug. Of course, holes must cleanly punched then angle-drilled using (most likely) a hand held 3/8" electric drill. 1) Forstner bits work best (or only work well at all) when the center spur bites into something. When doing this repair first plug the bridge pin hole/s with a glued in dowel ( and let dry) or else tight fitting shoe pegs; give the spur something to bite and then bring on the Forstner. 2) Drill down with the Forstner at least 3/8" deep. Typical size Forstners have been 3/8" and 1/2". 3) I prefer for the plug to be quarter-sawn maple, but the choice is yours. Before cutting the plug out of the mother board, pay attention to the board's grain rise and fall so as to avoid tear out when chiseling the plug flat and also when notching. Then be sure to orient the top of the plug grain to match the existing grain orientation in the bridge cap, which more or less runs parallel (usually) with the front and back edges of the bridge. 4) Epoxy is not required as any good fast drying glue will work. I prefer a good gap glue such as Garrett Wades gap filling, fast drying glue for stuff like this. 5) After chiseling and sanding the plug flat, Dag the plug and local bridge top area before you punch, notch and pin (level pins if you like). Finish the newly cut notch with varnish or some fast-drying finish. 6) Chisel/s must be very sharp! 7) Practice this repair with maple scraps before you bring it online. It's not hard, but unless you have the skill and feeling for this work, better to check into spring training first. See photos for some of this. I didn't have time to re-size these photos to fit inside the text box, so you will have to open them individually. Nick On Fri, Feb 4, 2011 at 10:32 AM, Gene Nelson <nelsong at intune88.com> wrote: > Keith, > Here is one option to consider. > I did an in home repair once that worked for a bridge/unison that was in > need of more help than yours. > Just removed the strings, then removed the bridge pins on the speaking side > of the offending note. Then centered a forsner bit over the bridge pin holes > and notch, then drilled into the bridge root. Filled the hole with a > Dilignit plug - epoxied it in. Then trimmed the plug flat to the bridge cap > with a chisel, drilled new bridge pin holes and carved a new notch, inserted > new bridge pins . Acton Dag hid the bulk of the repair. Worked just fine and > not very difficult. > I believe that I learned it from Nick Gravagne. > Gene > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mr. Mac's" <tune-repair at allegiance.tv> > To: <pianotech at ptg.org> > Sent: Thursday, February 03, 2011 5:32 PM > Subject: [pianotech] Bridge pin locations help (image oops) > > [attachment "Sanded plug.jpg" deleted by Paul T Williams/Music/UNL/UNEBR] [attachment "Bad BR hole3.jpg" deleted by Paul T Williams/Music/UNL/UNEBR] [attachment "Forstner.jpg" deleted by Paul T Williams/Music/UNL/UNEBR] [attachment "Maple Plugs.jpg" deleted by Paul T Williams/Music/UNL/UNEBR] [attachment "Plug Trimming.jpg" deleted by Paul T Williams/Music/UNL/UNEBR] [attachment "Plugged BR Holes.jpg" deleted by Paul T Williams/Music/UNL/UNEBR] -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://ptg.org/pipermail/pianotech.php/attachments/20110204/543c3689/attachment.htm>
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