[pianotech] Carbon Fiber Lever (was Hammer Technique: was Q & A Roundtable)

John Formsma formsma at gmail.com
Tue Feb 8 05:46:13 MST 2011


On Tue, Feb 8, 2011 at 1:39 AM, David Nereson <da88ve at gmail.com> wrote:

It's not the hammer that requires changing tips, it's the pianos with their
> high plate struts, different size pins, overhangs, etc. !
>   --D.N.
>
>

Since I changed to a Fujan 15º head, I rarely find a piano with a plate
strut too high. Now, for one or two pins, I'll sometimes have to move my
lever to a different position on the clock.

And I never change tips until the old one is just too worn out to make it
work well. For me, it's just not worth the added time. Yeah, I'm sure it
might feel better ... too some extent. However, lest we forget, what we're
doing is still pretty low-tech. Grunt and move the pin ... so it's not like
we must have that "perfect" tip/pin connection. At least I don't need that.

Like Dean, I have a thin-wall tip (on an old Hale lever) that stays in the
trunk nearly all the time. I need it for one piano that I service, and that
only for one pin.

Currently, I'm using the Fujan lever with a 15º head, ~3mm spacer, and a
regular-length Jahn tip. Steve Fujan made a prototype conversion to allow
the use of a Jahn tip, and I *love* that! This setup give me adequate
clearance on nearly everything. As I mentioned, I might have to shift the
lever position for 1-2 pins at an upper treble break on the row of pins
farthest from me, but that's not any hassle whatsoever.

-- 
JF
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