[pianotech] Bad day in Truman

[Alan Eder]

Hi Horace,


I neglected to mention that I did tightened all the screws (prior to my original post) and the sound persists, with unmitigated vehemence (too bad I can't just fix it with big words. huh?).


Thanks,


Alan E.


P. S. Is Freddie related to Yogi Berra?




-----Original Message-----
From: Horace Greeley <hgreeley at sonic.net>
To: pianotech <pianotech at ptg.org>
Sent: Sat, Feb 12, 2011 11:59 am
Subject: Re: [pianotech] Bad day in Truman



Hi, Alan,

"First tighten all the screws.  Then, make sure all the screws are 
tight." - Freddie Odenheimer

Cheers!

Horace


At 04:54 PM 2/12/2011, you wrote:
>Hi Susan,
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Susan Kline <skline at peak.org>
>To: pianotech <pianotech at ptg.org>
>Sent: Sat, Feb 12, 2011 8:32 am
>Subject: Re: [pianotech] Bad day in Truman
>
>On 2/12/2011 12:15 PM, Tom Driscoll wrote:
>>And of course don't forget the catcher shank glue joint will also click ..
>By all means, remember this, and also to tighten the flange screws.
>
>
>The first thing I did after hearing the sound, yet not having the 
>hammers feel loose in my hand.
>
>While turning it upside down and dripping CA into the seams is an 
>eternal cure, it takes time and you would have to be sure to get the 
>hammer line straight very quickly, as it sets up so fast.
>
>As previously mentioned, these hammers don't rock, yet there is a 
>click, which seems to be a glue-starved joint at one or the other or 
>both ends of the shank.
>
>It might be safer to drip in titebond cut 1:1 with water. Turn it 
>back over and fix the hammer line when they are about half set up, 
>so they'll stay where you put them, would be my guess.
>
>In the field, where there are often just a few, I put some white 
>glue on the pinky of my right hand, and reach around the hammer 
>head, massaging the white glue into the joint of any hammer which 
>will twitch if tweaked. If it's loose enough to move up and down, 
>it's loose enough for some of the glue to work in.
>
>You have to be careful the white glue doesn't drip down enough to 
>glue the shank to the hammer rail cloth. For this, it's best to 
>check it pretty frequently after the glue is put on, wiping up 
>extra, and also seeing that the hammer head is setting up. (A few 
>are so loose they need a second dose.) When it's half set up is the 
>right time to get it in line with the others.
>
>It's much more thorough to pull the hammer right off to reglue it 
>(some will just come off if urged) but then you also have to be sure 
>that the hammer ends up pointed straight at the strings, and you 
>still have the possibility that the glue will drip down. While 
>turning the whole action upside down will get rid of the dribbling 
>glue problem (except on whatever is beneath the action, of course) 
>it also takes time, and would need to be charged for. Just gluing a 
>few loose hammers with the action in place takes so little time that 
>it can fit into a normal tuning fee, no trouble.
>
>I always prefer to avoid nickel-and-diming customers if at all 
>possible. It's annoying and a waste of time for all concerned.
>
>If I am going to re-glue half of the hammers on this baby (the 
>approximate quantity referenced in my original post), it's going to 
>cost more than both a nickel AND a dime together (two bits at LEAST, 
>I'd say ;-).
>
>Susan
>
>Thanks for your useful input, as always.
>
>Alan E.
>



 

 
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