[pianotech] Bad day in Truman

[Horace Greeley]

Hi, Alan,

At 05:20 PM 2/12/2011, you wrote:
>Hi Horace,
>
>I neglected to mention that I did tightened all the screws (prior to 
>my original post) and the sound persists, with unmitigated vehemence 
>(too bad I can't just fix it with big words. huh?).

Hmmm...not sure that you can't...besides, folks are impressed when 
you use more than a couple of syllables....

>Thanks,
>
>Alan E.
>
>P. S. Is Freddie related to Yogi Berra?

Hmmm...not know, Kimo Sabe!...Anyway, I was just thinking of 
Freddie's first two steps in regulating (or, anything else, for that 
matter)...it was a reach, I admit...hg



>-----Original Message-----
>From: Horace Greeley <hgreeley at sonic.net>
>To: pianotech <pianotech at ptg.org>
>Sent: Sat, Feb 12, 2011 11:59 am
>Subject: Re: [pianotech] Bad day in Truman
>
>
>
>Hi, Alan,
>
>"First tighten all the screws.  Then, make sure all the screws are
>tight." - Freddie Odenheimer
>
>Cheers!
>
>Horace
>
>
>At 04:54 PM 2/12/2011, you wrote:
> >Hi Susan,
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: Susan Kline <<mailto:skline at peak.org>skline at peak.org>
> >To: pianotech <<mailto:pianotech at ptg.org>pianotech at ptg.org>
> >Sent: Sat, Feb 12, 2011 8:32 am
> >Subject: Re: [pianotech] Bad day in Truman
> >
> >On 2/12/2011 12:15 PM, Tom Driscoll wrote:
> >>And of course don't forget the catcher shank glue joint will also click ..
> >By all means, remember this, and also to tighten the flange screws.
> >
> >
> >The first thing I did after hearing the sound, yet not having the
> >hammers feel loose in my hand.
> >
> >While turning it upside down and dripping CA into the seams is an
> >eternal cure, it takes time and you would have to be sure to get the
> >hammer line straight very quickly, as it sets up so fast.
> >
> >As previously mentioned, these hammers don't rock, yet there is a
> >click, which seems to be a glue-starved joint at one or the other or
> >both ends of the shank.
> >
> >It might be safer to drip in titebond cut 1:1 with water. Turn it
> >back over and fix the hammer line when they are about half set up,
> >so they'll stay where you put them, would be my guess.
> >
> >In the field, where there are often just a few, I put some white
> >glue on the pinky of my right hand, and reach around the hammer
> >head, massaging the white glue into the joint of any hammer which
> >will twitch if tweaked. If it's loose enough to move up and down,
> >it's loose enough for some of the glue to work in.
> >
> >You have to be careful the white glue doesn't drip down enough to
> >glue the shank to the hammer rail cloth. For this, it's best to
> >check it pretty frequently after the glue is put on, wiping up
> >extra, and also seeing that the hammer head is setting up. (A few
> >are so loose they need a second dose.) When it's half set up is the
> >right time to get it in line with the others.
> >
> >It's much more thorough to pull the hammer right off to reglue it
> >(some will just come off if urged) but then you also have to be sure
> >that the hammer ends up pointed straight at the strings, and you
> >still have the possibility that the glue will drip down. While
> >turning the whole action upside down will get rid of the dribbling
> >glue problem (except on whatever is beneath the action, of course)
> >it also takes time, and would need to be charged for. Just gluing a
> >few loose hammers with the action in place takes so little time that
> >it can fit into a normal tuning fee, no trouble.
> >
> >I always prefer to avoid nickel-and-diming customers if at all
> >possible. It's annoying and a waste of time for all concerned.
> >
> >If I am going to re-glue half of the hammers on this baby (the
> >approximate quantity referenced in my original post), it's going to
> >cost more than both a nickel AND a dime together (two bits at LEAST,
> >I'd say ;-).
> >
> >Susan
> >
> >Thanks for your useful input, as always.
> >
> >Alan E.
> >
>
>