Hello again, I have used the drilling method on a couple pianos with success. One was my own very old upright piano that I first treated by trying to wick the CA through the bushing. It did not get to the pinblock but sealed the bushing to the plate and pin and would not take more CA. So I figured if I drilled a very small hole on the top of the bushing all the way down into the pin block, it should do the job better without compromising the friction of the pin in the block much- since the pressure is mostly on the lower side of the pin. I used a number 80 drill in a Dremel with a small accessory Jacobs chuck that extended the reach a little so the motor did not get in the way. I still had to angle the hole a bit to avoid the string coil. The drill angled a bit toward the pin and I stopped when I felt contact to the harder pin. This was about 3/4 inch in. I then used an 18 or 20 gauge needle on a 3 cc syringe to deliver the CA deep into the block It worked great. I will continue to use this method for most uprights as it is a lot less messy, does not require tipping the piano, and is less likely to run down onto the string felt too. For what it's worth- I just ordered a finger drill from Garrett Wade that is an Archamedes drill that has a quick action spiral shaft to spin the drill as you push it down. It is made for very small drill bits and has a small diameter at the chuck so it will interfere less than the Dremel with the tuning pin. I am anxiously awaiting delivery to try it. I did break a few bits and had to leave them embedded in the block. It didn't cause any problem. The bits are quite cheap. I bought an envelope with about 10 bits at a good local hardware store. They are under a dollar each. Douglas Gregg Classic Piano Doc Southold, NY 11971
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