[pianotech] The Right Tool for the job! - was Renner gobbledegook...whatever

[Laura Olsen]

Is the letoff rail detachable?  Setting the jack position is a pre-regualtion step, why not just remove the rail, adjust the Jacks, put that puppy back on and check the letoff again?
There's more than one way to skin a cat.
Laura Olsen

On Jan 26, 2012, at 11:16 AM, Joseph Garrett wrote:

> This question was posted on the "new list". Since I only "skulk" and don't
> post there, hopefully someone, (Maybe Jim I.), will forward this to
> whoever.<G>
> Here tis'
> 
> "3.From: Jim Ialeggio
> Posted: 2012/01/25 9:23:00 AM
> Subject: German factory explanation in gubashali english
> Message: OKay language fans, here's a puzzler for you.
> 
> I'm regulating (or rather attempting to regulate) an August Foerester
> Grand, 190 Circa 2002. Current production Renner action/stack.
> 
> Action and touch are quite nice, so geometry is working fine.
> 
> The letoff dowels are screwed up, way high at the top of their travel, very
> close to actually contacting the bottom of the hammer rail. I can get
> letoff nice and close without being limited by the dowels hitting the
> hammer rail bottom.
> 
> Problem: With the letoff dowels in this position, it is physically
> impossible to adjust the jack screws...absolutely no clearance to reach
> around the dowel, and no clearance to get the tool between the dowels and
> back into the vicinity of the jack screw without bending the letoff
> dowels/screws out of the way. No can do.
> 
> The best option to me seems to be to remove the dowels and shorten the top
> of the dowel by 3/16-1/4", as the jack screw, at rest, is lying just below
> the bottom of the hammer rail. This assumes shortening the dowel, which is
> at the top of the screw travel, will still leave me with sufficient screw
> treads in the dowel...I think it will.
> 
> The puzzler...Here is what the techs at Foerester said(Germany, I think in
> what used to be East Germany), when I asked them what they had in mind:
> 
> "if you want adjust the jack adjustment screw you must put away the letoff
> dowel real."
> 
> Hey Jurgen...you out there.
> 
> I think they want me to lower the letoff dowel way out of the way, adjust
> the jack screw, and then raise the dowel after the jack is adjusted. This,
> to my way of regulating, which checks each adjustment, especially the jack
> and rep height adjustments, multiple times during the regulation, besides
> being ridiculously inefficient, will limit what I can give the pianist...an
> excellent client, who is a fine pianist.
> 
> What's your take on that gubashali instruction?"
> 
> Jim Ialeggio,
> There are two ways to address the jack adjustment issue. One: make a tool
> out of a 1/16" drill rod w/an 1/8" steel head welded to the rod end. Cut a
> slot into the end of the  1/8" head. Then silver solder "sweat solder" a
> brass sleeve over that head  Put a handle on it w/ a "flat" that is
> parallell to the slot, (for reference). 
> Or....Two: remake the let-off button rail to allow more range of
> adjustment. (Hint: if you turn the action upside down, you'll see that the
> let-off rail is attached to the hammer rail with screws!!!!<G>) Of course,
> you'll probably have to "slightly" modifiy the hammer rail as well,
> but....whatever it takes to overcome crappy engineering. Right?!! Right!!
> Best Regards,
> Joe
> 
> 
> Joe Garrett, R.P.T.
> Captain of the Tool Police
> Squares R I
>