[pianotech] The Right Tool for the job! - was Renner gobbledegook...whatever

[Joseph Garrett]

That's fine for a one-time thang. But, those things do need touch-up from
time to time. So re-establishing the let-off strips, (thinning), to allow
the buttons to be lower, which allows easier access to the jack screws is
advised. Also, the special tool I described is easy to make and works on
all grands with that kind of configuration  and standard types. Once I made
one of them, I have delighted in how easy it makes that adjustment, so I
made several for in-the-field, shop and the "Gorilla Kit".<G> Only way to
go.
Best,
Joe



> [Original Message]
> From: Laura Olsen <ajoyfulsound at gmail.com>
> To: <joegarrett at earthlink.net>; <pianotech at ptg.org>
> Cc: <ajoyfulsound at gmail.com>
> Date: 1/26/2012 2:00:01 PM
> Subject: Re: [pianotech] The Right Tool for the job! - was Renner
gobbledegook...whatever
>
> Is the letoff rail detachable?  Setting the jack position is a
pre-regualtion step, why not just remove the rail, adjust the Jacks, put
that puppy back on and check the letoff again?
> There's more than one way to skin a cat.
> Laura Olsen
>
> On Jan 26, 2012, at 11:16 AM, Joseph Garrett wrote:
>
> > This question was posted on the "new list". Since I only "skulk" and
don't
> > post there, hopefully someone, (Maybe Jim I.), will forward this to
> > whoever.<G>
> > Here tis'
> > 
> > "3.From: Jim Ialeggio
> > Posted: 2012/01/25 9:23:00 AM
> > Subject: German factory explanation in gubashali english
> > Message: OKay language fans, here's a puzzler for you.
> > 
> > I'm regulating (or rather attempting to regulate) an August Foerester
> > Grand, 190 Circa 2002. Current production Renner action/stack.
> > 
> > Action and touch are quite nice, so geometry is working fine.
> > 
> > The letoff dowels are screwed up, way high at the top of their travel,
very
> > close to actually contacting the bottom of the hammer rail. I can get
> > letoff nice and close without being limited by the dowels hitting the
> > hammer rail bottom.
> > 
> > Problem: With the letoff dowels in this position, it is physically
> > impossible to adjust the jack screws...absolutely no clearance to reach
> > around the dowel, and no clearance to get the tool between the dowels
and
> > back into the vicinity of the jack screw without bending the letoff
> > dowels/screws out of the way. No can do.
> > 
> > The best option to me seems to be to remove the dowels and shorten the
top
> > of the dowel by 3/16-1/4", as the jack screw, at rest, is lying just
below
> > the bottom of the hammer rail. This assumes shortening the dowel, which
is
> > at the top of the screw travel, will still leave me with sufficient
screw
> > treads in the dowel...I think it will.
> > 
> > The puzzler...Here is what the techs at Foerester said(Germany, I think
in
> > what used to be East Germany), when I asked them what they had in mind:
> > 
> > "if you want adjust the jack adjustment screw you must put away the
letoff
> > dowel real."
> > 
> > Hey Jurgen...you out there.
> > 
> > I think they want me to lower the letoff dowel way out of the way,
adjust
> > the jack screw, and then raise the dowel after the jack is adjusted.
This,
> > to my way of regulating, which checks each adjustment, especially the
jack
> > and rep height adjustments, multiple times during the regulation,
besides
> > being ridiculously inefficient, will limit what I can give the
pianist...an
> > excellent client, who is a fine pianist.
> > 
> > What's your take on that gubashali instruction?"
> > 
> > Jim Ialeggio,
> > There are two ways to address the jack adjustment issue. One: make a
tool
> > out of a 1/16" drill rod w/an 1/8" steel head welded to the rod end.
Cut a
> > slot into the end of the  1/8" head. Then silver solder "sweat solder" a
> > brass sleeve over that head  Put a handle on it w/ a "flat" that is
> > parallell to the slot, (for reference). 
> > Or....Two: remake the let-off button rail to allow more range of
> > adjustment. (Hint: if you turn the action upside down, you'll see that
the
> > let-off rail is attached to the hammer rail with screws!!!!<G>) Of
course,
> > you'll probably have to "slightly" modifiy the hammer rail as well,
> > but....whatever it takes to overcome crappy engineering. Right?!!
Right!!
> > Best Regards,
> > Joe
> > 
> > 
> > Joe Garrett, R.P.T.
> > Captain of the Tool Police
> > Squares R I
> >