[pianotech] First Pinblock

[Noah Frere]

Thanks all. I have read the 1'st two of Jack Krefting's Upright Restoration
articles from 1982 and ya'll echoed some of those ideas (steel, or plywood,
reinforcement; fixing tuning pin position).

Mike: it is not a 2-part block. So no problems there.

Flange-mentioners: i don't think there is a flange. as a matter of fact,
the plate is sitting on top of the lower pinblock. No wonder it failed. You
can like reach your fingers underneath the plate, like, all over the place.
(well, not ALL over - but most of it, as it rests a half-inch or so from
the soundboard).

Plus, I'm not sure the pinblock was made of the best wood.

Not to worry! We'll figure it out :)

I don't expect any replies here until I get into the shop again and learn
more and get some pinblock-specific pictures. Just responding to the posts.
However, i'll attach a photo of the back. [image: Inline image 1]



On Sun, Feb 3, 2013 at 8:07 AM, Mike Spalding
<mike.spalding1 at frontier.com>wrote:

>  Noah,
>
> I agree with everything Chuck has said.  In addition:
>
> Most likely the new pinblock will need to be fitted to the plate flange.
> Do this exactly as you would for a grand piano; i.e. jigsaw as close as you
> can to original pinblock shape, refine with chalk transfer from plate
> flange, finish with epoxy (West with colloidal silica filler, not the
> stringy yellow goop in your photos)..
>
> I can't tell from your photos whether your original pinblock is one piece,
> or split at the tenor block (see attached photos).  Do not split your
> replacement.  The pinblock will be the main structural member across the
> top of the piano, don't do anything to weaken it.  Further, I'd recommend
> that you choose your pinblock material for structural rigidity rather than
> your preferred tuning pin feel.  Delignit or Falconwood.
>
> good luck
>
> Mike
>
>
> On 2/2/2013 8:53 PM, Chuck Behm wrote:
>
> Hey, Noah - Sounds like an interesting project you're embarking on! I'm
> assuming this piano has a lot of sentimental value to you or someone near
> and dear (hence it goes by a name), because you'll be spending a lot of
> time on this. Well, if nothing else, it'll be a learning experience.
>
> The article you're referring to deals with quite a bit different situation
> - a solid pinblock which simply needed the pin fields routered out for the
> insertion of pinblock panels. By the looks of things, you're beyond that
> repair scenario, and will be looking at a total replacement of the
> pinblock, complicated by the excessive goop which will need to be
> completely removed from the back bracing before replacement may commence.
>
> Before tackling the removal of the old pinblock, however, the first order
> of business is establishing the correct placement of the pins before their
> positioning is lost. You'll need to make a paper pattern, using
> contractor's or butcher paper (not several sheets of computer paper taped
> together!). Remove the old pins (noting the angle at which they're drilled)
> and cover the entire pinblock with your paper. Crease the paper along the
> sides and clearly mark the position with tack marks for later positioning.
> Use a pencil to make a rubbing of the tuning pin holes. For photos of the
> technique, have a look at the March, 2011 segment of the "Small Shop"
> series<http://www.pianopromoproductions.com/resources/34.%20Mar.%2C%202011%20Small%20Shop.pdf>
> .
>
> The juncture between the bottom of the pinblock and the rest of the piano
> hopefully is not complicated. I haven't taken one of these particular
> pianos apart so I'm not sure what you'll be looking at. Anyone else have a
> clue?
>
> Best of luck.   Chuck
>
> .
>
>
>
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