Soundboard shims via Spurlok method (update)

[Ed Sutton]

Greg,
When making the cut you're describing, you might try clamping a scrap of 2x4
to the belly bar, co-planar with the soundboard.  This allows you to reverse
the router foot 180 degrees and cut to the edge of the soundboard with the
feet supported on the 2x4 that extends the soundboard surface.
That little router really eats wood, and I found the first cuts very
frightening.
Ed

----------
>From: Greg Newell <gnewell@ameritech.net>
>To: Pianotech forum <pianotech@ptg.org>, Master Piano Tech <mpt@talklist.com>,
College and University Technicians <caut@ptg.org>
>Subject: Soundboard shims via Spurlok method (update)
>Date: Sun, May 6, 2001, 10:40 PM
>

> Lists,
>     I thought since I started this mess and you folks were gracious
> enough to reply I would update you on my progress. I have persevered
> unto good results. I found that the trouble I was having was at the very
> end of the cut where the soundboard meets the rim. This is on the
> keyboard side of the bridges at the longest point of grain. The last
> inch or two the crown suddenly gets pretty sharp and the foot of the
> tool comes up off the sound board and rocks. This is primarily why I
> could not control the cut and wound up with a horrible mess my first
> shot. As I said i did persevere and found a way to make it work in that
> area. Other areas I tried went smoothly and the tool performed as
> expected. I suppose I panicked a bit at first. Kind of unnerving when it
> looks like your well on your way to ruining a customers sound board.
> Thanks to all of you for your encouragement.
>
> Greg
>
> --
> Greg Newell
> Greg's Piano Forté
> 12970 Harlon Ave.
> Lakewood, Ohio 44107
> 216-226-3791
> mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net
>
>