[CAUT] Key Bushings

[Jon Ralinovsky]

Hi Ken,
I've found that taking out the bushings isn't a problem. I also use 
the Spurlock sizing cauls with the softer wood key buttons - I think 
it makes a difference as far as getting a consistent size for the 
mortise. The key buttons that I've seen on the slightly newer (circa 
1970) 1098s here aren't great - some kind of basswood that's pretty 
soft.

Good luck with your projects!

Respectfully,
Jon


>I'm just running into all sorts of odd stuff here lately.
>
>We have two S&S 45s from 1953 here that need a lot of work.  My 
>first step was going to be to replace the key bushings, but when I 
>opened the piano up and looked at the keys, I found the bushings 
>were set below the surface of the key button, and the wood was 
>deformed right next to the bushing, as if the bushing had been 
>installed in the usual manner, and then punched down almost 1/16". 
> I have attached a picture, but it doesn't  have the detail I would 
>have liked.  All the key buttons are like this, and all the front 
>bushings as well, so I suspect it is factory original.  It really 
>doesn't look like the results from one of those "key bushing 
>tightener" jobs.
>
>I have only worked on a couple of SS45s; has anyone seen this 
>before?  My main concern is that when I try to remove the bushings 
>I'll take a big chunk of the wood, the part that was punched down, 
>along with it.  I wonder if I ought to just plan on replacing the 
>buttons.  What do y'all think?
>
>Thanks,
>Ken Z.
>--
>Ken Zahringer, RPT
>University of Missouri
>School of Music


-- 
Jon Ralinovsky
Piano Technician
Department of Music
Miami University
513/529-6548
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/caut.php/attachments/20060505/c873cb7c/attachment.html