Don, I'm assuming the piano was not under warranty when you did the operation. If it was under warranty, it would have been best to contact Samick and have them direct you. This way, if you did what they recommended and it didn't work out, they would cover you. In fact, even if the piano is not under warranty, it wouldn't hurt to call Samick and tell them what happened. Maybe they could at least advise you what to do next. It sounds like you did everything considered correct by professional standards. At least, I was told when I was trained that driving the tuning pins with supports was the proper way to deal with loose tuning pins as a first step. If they were really loose I might have used some CA glue and then drive the pins. Therefore, it is not your fault the pinblock split at the bottom lamination. It sounds like you had the jack tight enough. You shouldn't have to have the jack underneath where you are tapping, either. It may be necessary to move the jack 3 or 4 times as you complete the job. My guess is that the laminations that really count (the ones that surround the tuning pin) are OK. If the tuning pins are tight after you tap the tuning pins, you are probably fine. Another way to tell if laminations are loose, is you can see portions of the pinblock that are lower than other portions. Sometimes you cannot see any problem, however. As far as tuning pin length, the only practical problem I see is that they might interfere with pulling the action out if they protrude too far below the pinblock. Also, it doesn't look good. Normally, my next step when tuning pins come loose again is to repin. In your case, maybe replacing the pinblock might be the next step, considering that oversized pins might cause more splitting out (again, contact Samick). My rule is that if I perform a service on a piano that is considered correct, it is the customer's responsibility if something goes wrong. I would not give them a free pinblock any more than I would give them free strings if strings break during the tuning process (unless I tightened the string by mistake well above the normal breaking point). However, just because you don't owe them, that doesn't mean you don't have a customer relations problem. Most customers, I think, understand that when strings break (as well as other things) that you are a professional and know what your doing, and won't blame you if something like this happens. My approach is to tell the customer up front that tapping the pins (and maybe using CA glue) is the first step because it is the least amount of work and is the least expensive approach, and that it is possible that it will not work. The next step would be repinning. The most drastic step is install a new pinblock and restring. If the pinblock/string replacement exceeds the value of the instrument, I might suggest repairing the pinblock with epoxy. I think the bottom line is not to promise the customer that you will solve every problem when using "first aid" techniques like tapping tuning pins. Something I learned from Wally Brooks years ago: "Don't make the customer's problem into your problem." Actually, I heard him say it years ago, but when something like what happened to you happens to me, I think I am still learning it. Sincerely, Gary Mushlin, MME, RPT On Feb 5, 2007, at 9:21 AM, daniel carlton wrote: > i actually wasn't replacing the pins, just driving the one that > were already there. > > "Why are you driving them so far through the block? > When they go that far, they must be pushing the jack away from the > block." > i made the mistake of not checking whether they were too long or not. > i had done that two or three times before on other pianos, but the > pins were short enough that they didn't protrude through the bottom > of the PB, so i forgot to check. oops. > > Do you have a support between the keybed and the floor? > yes i did have support between the keybed and the floor...the piano > legs. (SORRY, JUST KIDDING.) > i used my pinblock support, the kind with two pieces of laminated > hardwood two large bolts. > i had a piece of high density fiberboard between the support and > the keybed. > > "...you owe your customer a new pinblock as well." > "Sorry, but I'd say that this block is a do-over." > > well...crap. > > i guess there's really no way to tell if the damage is deeper than > the first lamination. > so it sounds like most everyone's professional opinion is to put in > a new PB? > > daniel carlton > > >
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