Well this backaction is done. I shaved off the center ridge on the rail in the table saw. Then I needed some off the tray so the rail could come forward and that left me with a 2mm thick strip that I glued back on the rail to stop the shorter flanges from twisting. I had to shave that down slightly with the square metal scraper. I glued the four 3mm thick pads on the bottom to raise the rail so the center pin was the same height minus just a little. I marked the holes for the capstans on the tray from the marks on the felt and then compared it to the holes on the rail. I took 5mm off the tray to make a ledge to fit Jurgens capstans. (they can be put on with a cordless drill and socket) Drilled the holes at 8* to the tray so they are flat to the arms. The distance from flange center pin to the lift center pin was 6mm shorter so I drilled the new bracket hole in the rail 6mm back. A little notching to fit the brackets and I was hanging the new arms with the cordless. A pad behind the arms that got springs was needed too. Fits beautifully. I got an attaboy..<GRIN> You might keep the brackets and and maybe the tray hardware and sos rod. You know how that old pot metal can expand sometimes. Keith Roberts On 10/16/07, Jon Page <jonpage at comcast.net> wrote: > > > I have a salvaged backaction from a Vose. The one with brackets > which also mount the upstop rail and sos rod. > > > I don't want to pitch it and don't want it hanging around either. > jpg on request. > > -- > > > Regards, > > Jon Page > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/caut.php/attachments/20071017/9432b4b6/attachment.html
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