Mark - I'm coming to this a bit late, but I can share something we did once or twice when I was at Manhattan School. Using some arrangement of reverse upcutting counterbore, we inserted the shank of the tool through the pin hole from underneath, then chucked it into a reversible drill, and pulled upward while cutting. That's the general idea...allowing you to cut a 1/2" hole without enlarging the plate hole. It was ingenious, so you can be sure I wasn't the one who thought of it. The trick, of course, is to stop before you start cutting iron. I'm sorry I can't recall the exact tool, or comination of shank and cutter we used. I may still be able to find out, if you're interested. Also, check out Page 162 in http://www.michigandrill.com/catalog/ This isn't what I remember using but it might work. Good luck David Skolnik Hastings on Hudson, NY At 12:14 PM 5/4/2009, you wrote: >Thanks Nancy, and Ron. > >I’ve replaced a couple Bluthner blocks with all >their compound fitting requirements, and I can’t >say I was significantly faster on the second >than the first and I’m not actively looking for a third! :>) > >I think the main idea behind the 3/8” plug Ron, >as you probably know, is to do a repair from the >top without having to overly enlarge the >tuning-pin hole through the plate. On the few >I’ve done, the resultant hole is hardly >noticeable, but the repair itself failed, so I guess I’m done with that. > >However, I’m going to bench-test some ½” plugs in spare time. > >Thanks again, >Mark C. > > > > > > >---------- >From: caut-bounces at ptg.org >[mailto:caut-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf Of Nancy Salmon >Sent: May 2, 2009 11:41 AM >To: caut at ptg.org >Subject: Re: [CAUT] pin-block plugging? > >I recently (within 2 years) plugged part of an >odd Weber grand where the pinblock was in 2 >parts. The bottom layer was one solid piece of >maple, mitred into the case. This I plugged with >falconwood plugs; 3/8" only would fit. The top >layer, fit to the plate, I replaced with falconwood. Drilled for 2/0 pins. > >The result is only OK. Just enough torque and is >fairly stable. Though I installed a Climate >Control unit, the building has radiant and >passive solar heat, so it is difficult to judge >my results. Were I to do it again I would modify >the case and replace both parts of the block. >The difficulty was compounded by fitting the >plate/block to the mitred base blindly - very >tricky and time consuming. I realize the first time for anything is slow. > >This has been a valuable thread, thanks for >raising the question. Nancy Salmon RPT > >Frostburg State Univ., Maryland >On Fri, May 1, 2009 at 11:47 AM, Mark Cramer ><<mailto:cramer at brandonu.ca>cramer at brandonu.ca> wrote: > >Interesting thought Marcel, it never donned on >me I might be creating a glue-starved joint with >aliphatic resin glue. When I use this stuff my >practice is to coat both surfaces and let it sit >for a minute before assembling, for that very reason. > > > >All the same, does it strike you odd that I >haven’t had dozens of technicians reply to say >“we’ve had nothing but success with pin-block >plugs” especially technicians from the era when >plugging rather than replacing blocks was the fad. (?) > > > >BTW, I think you’re right, a bench experiment >would probably solve the mystery in a hurry. > > > >Best regards, > >Mark Cramer, RPT > >Brandon University > >---------- >From: ><mailto:caut-bounces at ptg.org>caut-bounces at ptg.org > [mailto:caut-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf Of Marcel Carey >Sent: April 30, 2009 7:04 PM >To: <mailto:caut at ptg.org>caut at ptg.org > >Subject: Re: [CAUT] pin-block plugging? > > > >Hi Mark, > > >From your description, I think you might be > drilling too SMALL for the plug. There has to > be a gap. You might just be pushing all the > glue out of the hole and then when you repin > the whole plug might turn. Of course after > putting in bigger pins the plug eventually > sticks there. I've seen it done at Steinway > factory for a pin that was too loose to start > with. If it has worked for them, it has to work > for you too. Maybe you could experiment in an > old piece of block until you find the right combination. > >Marcel Carey >Sherbrooke > > > >---------- >Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2009 11:12:26 -0500 >From: <mailto:cramer at brandonu.ca>cramer at brandonu.ca >To: <mailto:caut at ptg.org>caut at ptg.org >Subject: [CAUT] pin-block plugging? > >Now and then I run into a situation where >plugging a tuning-pin hole and re-drilling seems >like the only option. IOW, neither an over-sized >pin, CA glue nor an emery paper shim will work. > > > >I’ve tackled this fairly carefully, even using a >small portable drill press clamped to the keybed >to get a precise hole, but I never seem to get a good result: > > > >I’ve used plugs from both economy blocks and >Bolduc blocks. The plugs are a tight fit to the >wood, and really have to be driven home. I’ve used carpenter’s glue. > > > >Nonetheless, the results always seem to end up >the same. I bore for a 1/0 pin, then end up >installing a 2/0, then up-sizing to a 3/0, and often a 4/0!? > > > >Anyone have success with this? > > > >Over the years some of you must’ve plugged and >re-bored entire pin-blocks. What’s your secret? > > > >Thanks, > >Mark Cramer, RPT > >Brandon University > > > > > > > > > > > >---------- >Windows Live Messenger vous permet de rester en >contact plus facilement- ><http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9650737>apprenez comment! > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://ptg.org/pipermail/caut_ptg.org/attachments/20090504/87ac0770/attachment.html>
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