[CAUT] slipping key slip

[Fred Sturm]

I've got an M in a practice room where somebody solved that problem by  
removing the screws from the cheek blocks, drilled holes through the  
slip corresponding to each of those locations, and attached the slip  
with round head screws to the blocks (using the same holes in the  
blocks). Functional. I haven't bothered to change the system.
Fred
On Aug 10, 2010, at 1:19 PM, Chris Solliday wrote:

> The last new S&S keyslip I got came without mortices and needed to  
> be trimmed for thickness and pins inserted. If you can’t inlay you  
> probably can’t do the other items. And sorry, the screw through the  
> slip into the block is just not the right approach. It ends  
> reasonable adjustment for clearance. Better to repair with inlay,  
> mind the grain orientation, remortice, and adjust screws and pins  
> for clearance.
> JMHO
> Chris Solliday
>
> From: caut-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf  
> Of tnrwim at aol.com
> Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 2010 2:00 PM
> To: caut at ptg.org
> Subject: Re: [CAUT] slipping key slip
>
> If you don't have the woodworking skills as per Ron's suggestion,  
> either buy a new slip, or drill holes in the keybed and slip, and  
> attach with screws.
>
> Wim
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jeannie Grassi <jcgrassi at earthlink.net>
> To: caut <caut at ptg.org>
> Sent: Tue, Aug 10, 2010 6:09 am
> Subject: [CAUT] slipping key slip
>
> Hi Folks,
> I’m looking for some suggestions for repairing damages S&S style key  
> slip.  The dovetail-type grooves that fit over the screws are both  
> broken off.  I have some ideas about fixing it, but thought I’d tap  
> into the collective knowledge of those who have done it with  
> success!  Thanks for you help.
> jeannie
>
> Jeannie Grassi, RPT
> Bainbridge Island, WA
>

Regards,
Fred Sturm
fssturm at unm.edu
"Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness." Twain

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