Young-Chang

[BDeTar@aol.com]

Hello, Mike

I don't have any specific dimensions for you but "factory specs" are merely
to get you in the ballpark anyway.  I would encourage you to "transition" to
a higher plane.

In the beginning, I was taught to tune using an electronic aid and longed to
be free of it.  I couldn't until I went to tune a piano in a place where I
had no access to power...I haven't used one since, (although I acknowledge
their merit for some, I LOVE to tune aurally!...can I peek around the corner
now?)...anyway this can be your opportunity to "transition".

I can give you some food for thought in terms of utilizing "piano" specs.
 Remember that the pianist doesn't care if the hammer blow distance is 46mm
or 48mm, or if let off is 1.5mm or 2.5mm.  What the pianist IS interested in
is how it feels in terms of responsiveness and eveness from note to note.  So
let's use that to our advantage.

It may take you a couple of tries, but let's set up a sample note.  Start by
checking the present "feel" of the piano.  How much aftertouch is there?  How
does the dip feel?  What is the key height?  How's the let off?  How about
drop and checking.  Spring tension ok?

Try thinking of it a bit like triage.  There has to be certain elements in
place before the next event can happen.  A "gross" list might look like this:

1. Key height
2. Hammers approx. 3-5mm off the rebound cushion  (make sure the you check
    repetition lever height and spring tension first)
3. Approx. 10-11mm key dip
4. Can you get about 2mm let off now?
5. When fully depressed, can you still "wiggle" the jack in the repetition
lever window?

If you can't get let off of approx. 2mm (or closer)  without losing all your
aftertouch, check to see which component(s) you can change.

A little more key height will give you, ultimately a bit more dip, which will
allow you to get a bit closer with your let off.  Then again, it may be that
your hammer blow distance can be decreased by raising the hammers a bit.

I think you get the picture.  By setting up a sample where you are free to
change any component until the action FEELS and RESPONDS with the largest
dynamic range and best repetition, you will be achieving the best that THIS
piano is capable of achieving.

The point here, is to use the piano and the existing geometry to tell you
what the "piano" specs should be.  With a bit of practice, the only
measurement you'll ultimately need is the measure of your success!!

Maybe this isn't the answer you were looking for, but I guarantee that if you
develop the skill to regulate the action the way a pianist plays it, you'll
have a lot more fun doing the regulation and see a pianist that glows as
she/he plays a piano that is consistant throughout!!  That's not to say that
you can't get this by using "factory" specs.  What I am saying is that this
will make the difference between a piano that feels "pretty good" and a piano
that absolutely encourages a pianist to excell and push it to it's limits!!

Have fun, Mike and let us know how it (and YOU) turn out!!

Brian De Tar  RPT                           NO OBSTACLES, ONLY OPPORTUNITIES!
BDeTar@aol.com