Player Piano Problems

[Frederick G Scoles]

I just read Patrick Pouson's player question and Mr. Smith's reply, which
lists governor springs and some other items as the possible causes of the
"so called" problem.  There are some additional items that Patrick could
also check which might cause this problem, if the main problem does lie
in the player systems.  First, some brands, like Schulz (and possibly
some others) used a pneumatic-activated valve or "see-saw" style cut-out
valve (reroll-play) in the bottom to switch between play and reroll
modes.  If these mode changing pnumatic valves are the least bit sticky
(tight bushings or too stiff of spring, leaky pneumatic, etc.), then often
they will not
put the top stack into play mode unless the player gives the pedals a
solid, hefty jab to force these valves firmly into play mode;  otherwise
even a well rebuilt piano can "play" through an entire roll without
hitting a single note.  A good player rebuilder carefully regulates these
mode changing pneumatics, valves and springs to work under all
conditions;so it might be good to check for a "play-reroll" valve which
is not engaging all the way; then make any adjustment needed to insure a
full change from reroll to play mode, even with light pedalling.  It is
essential to check and readjust these bottom "play-rewind" valves and
linkages periodically.

Second, some brands or designs require a healthy pump of the pedal at the
beginning
of a roll just to fully seat all the stack (note) valves.  Once all the
valves are seated, then it should be easy pedalling; unless leakage
problems exist.  For example, most early (pre-1920's) Amphion (AMPICO,
etc.) stacks have upside-down valves that do require a healthy jab on the
pedals to start a roll.  Some horizontal-valved (Starr, Standard, etc.)
stacks also require a quick hefty pump to start a roll, to initially seat
all the valves; otherwise, the notes may not play, even on a well-rebuilt
stack.

Therefore, this player might be one that by inherent design will
require the electrification kit Mr. Smith suggested.  If, by
troubleshooting, though, you find that a main "play-reroll" valve or
linkage is
not fully travelling or seating, then a simple repair might help.  Art
Reblitz's Player book contains some useful information about some of the
brands and their common problems. If this is the case, you could become a
"hero" by simply repairing the bad mode shift valve or bottom linkage to
achieve full "play-reroll".

Fred Scoles, RPT