I accidentally sent this message "to sender", so am now forwarding it "to all" for those interested. **************************** <---- Begin Included Message ----> From: rhohf@eagle.idcnet.com Subject: Re: (Sharp refinishing) To: atonal@planet.eon.net (Rob Kiddell) <---- Begin Included Message ----> Date: Thu, 04 Jan 1996 21:16:53 -0700 (MST) From: atonal@planet.eon.net (Rob Kiddell) Return-Path: pianotech@byu.edu To: Multiple recipients of list <pianotech@byu.edu> Alright all you cybertechs... after spending the better part of a day refinishing a set of ebony sharps, there has *got* to be a better way. For years I have been sanding the keys to restore the shape of the sharps, removing the old finish in the process. Then I used to use a black NGR stain once the keys had been smoothed out. The problem with the stains that I was using was that they left a purplish hue that had to be steel wooled out, much like a magic marker leaves behind. Then I would use a paste wax to seal in the stain. This process works about 60% of the time as a permanent refinish. The biggest problem is the stain sometimes comes off the keys onto the naturals (and fingers) after a few months of playing. This process is also extremely labour-intensive. I have recently switched to using spray lacquers for a more even finish, but the result resembles plastic and hides the ebony grain. Also, lacquer has a tendency to fish-eye if the wood is not *extremely* free from grease/oil. What do you folks do to keep your naturals looking sharp?? Rob Kiddell C.A.P.T. P.T.G. Associate Edmonton, AB, Canada <---- End Included Message ----> Here's one way: 1. Sand sharps to 400 grit. 2. If they must be BLACK apply Ebonholzbeize (don't be fooled by its brown color) or violinmakers' neck stain both available from International Luthiers Supply, Box 15444, Tulsa, Ok. 74112, 918-835-4181. I apply this only if the sharps have the characteristic white streaking of ebony. Fine pianos usually have selected out the steaking. Some color variation and grain figuring is beautiful to some eyes. 3. Apply tung oil. (spread on with cloth) 4. Apply more tung oil. 5. Keep applying tung oil until the wood stops absorbing. 6. Wipe off excess. 7. Rub with course cloth daily until the oil is set. This takes several days (or more if the temperature is low). 8. If the oil sets dull in between rubbing, rub with 4/0 steel wool to low gloss. Tung oil is >the best< finish for highlighting figured wood. It darkens with age. Damage may be restored by applying more oil. If time is a factor, you might try clear Watco or some other penetrating oil finish (I have not done this.) Bob Hohf X-Country Heaven <---- End Included Message ---->
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