Chickering damper reg.

[lessmith@buffnet7.buffnet.net]

>
> I have inspected a 1903 Chickering 6'4" grand. Needs action rebuild and I
> would like some input before taking on the job.
>
> The design of the damper system baffles me. There are no damper wire screws
> in the damper lift flanges. The damper wires are threaded and screwed into
> the top of the damper lift flange. It appears that setting the damper lift
> from keys would be very difficult. There are no capstains or any sort of
> adjustment between the damper under lever and lift rail to even out damper
> lift from pedal (which doesn't bother me as much as the lift from key
> problem). IS SOMETHING SO OBVIOUS THAT IT EVADES ME?
>
> If this system is just another weird Chickering experiment that is a bear to
> regulate, is there any replacement systems available?
>
> Thanks for any input!
>
>
> Lorlin Barber, RPT

Hi, Lorlin. Having done many of these, it turns out to be a piece of cake
to regulate. Ther basic design was very creative and well thought out. To
regulate  damper lift from the key you simply turn the damper in or out.
For example, if the damper is lifting too soon, your merely turn the damper
clockwise however many turns it takes to get in lifting properly. If the
damper is lifting too late, you simply turn it counterclockwise. Simply
remember that turning the damper clockwise INCREASES the distance between
the damper lifter felt at the back of the key and damper flange and turning
it counterclockwise DECREASES the distance. In order to make these adjust-
ments the damper stop rail must raised as high as possible so that you can
get the necessary clearance to turn the dampers without interfering with
the neighboring ones. Sometimes you have to even raise the stop rail com-
pletely above its screws and temporarily hold it in place with tape until
the regulation is completed. Once all the dampers are lifting properly,
because there are no set screws, a tiny bit of burnt shellac was original-
ly used to secure the damper wire where it entered the flange. Also, as
designed, the dampers are threaded onto the lifter wire in such a way that
the are free to rock back and forth slightly to permit perfact seating. If
you have a problem with them rocking too much, their front to back movement
can be restricted with a similar dab of burnt shellac. Only the front of the
damper lift rail felt is glued down to permit the insertion of paper shims
to even out damper rail lift. Where many people run into problems with re-
gulating damper lift from the keys is in not securing the wire to the top
of the flange with the burnt shellac. If you don't do this the damper will
sometimes twist sideways because of the lack of a set screw and the damper
felt won't seat properly. This leads to all sorts of bad language directed
towards Jonas and his sons who actually came up with a pretty nifty damper
design once you understand how it works. ONE BIG CAUTION. If you are con-
templating replaceing the pinblock in this piano be aware that it is one of
the most difficult pinblock to replace that was EVER designed. It will be in
FOUR pieces, with all sort of nifty compound angles and curves. These are
very difficult and time consuming to replace. Be prepared and charge accord-
ingly! They make a Steinway pinblock replacement seem like child's play. Lots
of luck!!!!!

Les Smith
lessmith@buffnet.net