Otto Higel Co

[Ty Fairchild]

On Mon, 11 Mar 1996 07:53:37 -0700 (MST), you wrote and I quote:

:>. Of course, I
:> stripmute the whole piano and raise all the middle strings, then all the
:> left strings, then all the right strings.
:
:What are the pro/con of doing the center strings first, as
:described, vs. just doing all three strings on each note as you go?
:
:/Allen Leigh
:So. Jordan, UT
:

This particular pitch-raising technique, to the best of my
recollection was demonstrated by the venerable George Defebaugh and, I
think, Jim Coleman, in a National PTG Convention in about 1983.  (I
may still have the actual tapes of the class).

This technique results in less strain on the plate as the tension is
distributed more evenly and gradually, which is surely a comfort when
pulling up old pianos. It also results in far fewer strings breaking,
and perhaps more importantly, ends up with a vastly more stable
instrument.  Raises of 100 cents can easily be done in a single
tuning.  If the piano is then re-tuned immediately with the same
method (read: Charge for Two tunings), it will stay in tune for what
might be expected as "normal" for the local environment, the piano's
condition, and playing usage. If a second tuning is not done
immediately after the first, the piano will be reasonably "close" yet
still very playable and can be tuned again when the customer wishes.

I have been using it since '83/'84 with such great success in
stability, (I stopped counting when I reached 1000, 100 cent raises)
that I now use it not only for every pitch-raise, but also on every
grand, and all large uprights for routine tuning, and definitely on
every concert tuning. Granted it takes time to become familiar and
comfortable with the different technique, but once mastered takes the
same or less time as other pitch-raising/tuning methods.  Personally,
I shall be forever grateful to George.

It should be noted that this method of pitch-raising is a separate
function from determining how far to over-pull to compensate for pitch
drop so that the piano ends up at 440/442. (I use the one my brother
showed me in 1959.) Point is, use whatever experience has shown works
for you.

Finally, an oft repeated caveat: Before attempting to pitch-raise
*any* piano, be sure to give it a check over. Items such as string
rust, previously broken/replaced/tied strings, bridges and pins, the
plate and plate bolts, sound board, tuning pin torque (you do have a
torque wrench with you, don't you?) etc. Don't overlook the
action/keys: You can't tune properly if the notes won't play properly.
And the greater the piano's age,  the greater the care you should take
with the inspection.  After all, not *all* pianos can be pitch-raised
and not all pianos were built to be pitched at 440.


So try out a new way of doing the same old thing, practice the due
diligence of a professional technician, have fun, and good luck.


Ty Fairchild