C-A glue for pin blocks

[Thos. D. Carpenter]

Hi Bill,    I`m thinking of trying the CA application.  My questions
are.......if applying 1/2 to 1 oz. won`t the odor by overwhelming?  How long
will it linger?  Will it be unsafe to inhale for a time?
thanks in advance. Tom
-----Original Message-----
From: BSimon1234@AOL.COM <BSimon1234@AOL.COM>
To: pianotech@ptg.org <pianotech@ptg.org>
Date: Saturday, May 08, 1999 1:33 AM
Subject: Re: C-A glue for pin blocks


>Paul Larudee writes:
>
> <<please correct and advise me as necessary.>>
>
>This is much easier than you think.
>
><<1.  Loosen 1/4 turn or so, slip off the coil and turn the pin up a
>little higher than it should be when at tension.  This is so that a) it
>will be at the right height when finished, and b) the glue will form
>evenly at all points on the pin, which it would not if it were under
>tension.>>
>
>No. Just hit it with the CA and accellerator  where it is. Don't loosen it,
>don't take off the coil, etc.
>
><<2.  With the action out of the piano and plastic sheeting on the key
>bed, apply accelerator to the under side of the pin block at the problem
>area.  This is so that any glue that might be tempted to drip will
>harden before doing so.  The plastic is in case that fails.>>
>
>No - for just one pin slip a foot square sheet of alum foil above the
action,
>below the area of the pin. You are only going to put on a few drops, less
>than one  cc.
>
><<3.  Apply low viscosity (red label) glue to the base of the pin, using a
>well sealed hypo syringe (which I guess is trash after the procedure).
>Allow the glue to wick down until the pin won't take any more.  Let
>harden completely.>>
>
>No. -Get a 1/2 or 1 oz. small bottle of the CA glue, put a capillary tip on
>it and apply with that.  You should see it flow around the bae of the pin.
>Don't apply forever. Give it a good sploosh, let it sit a minute, give it
>another good sploosh, applying only around the pin, not out onto the plate,
>not up onto the coil.  Let that soak in, then put a very tiny drop of
>accellerator at the base of the pin. You might see the residue of the CA
glue
>"freeze" solid. I would leave it alone for several hours, a day or two is
>better, but it is possible that 10 minutes might also work.
>
><<4.  Clean the underside of the pin block; install and tighten jack.
>Whack pin just enough to break glue contact.  Turn pin to point lightly
>above surrounding pins, replace coil, bring to tension and tune.>>
>
>No.  It is unlikely that there will be a residue on the underside,
especially
>for just one pin. The  drips come from treating the entire pinblock en
masse
>with several ounces of CA glue.
>
><<How's that?
>
>The above advice is just my opinion, it is the way I would do it,  but I
bet
>it works better than the elaborate scheme you were intending. If the torque
>is insufficient, support and tap. If the current pin torque is above 15
inch
>pounds, it is unlikely that tapping is manditory. The CA treatment quite
>possibly will be enough.
>
>Some questions:
>
><<Q#1:  When the pin gets whacked, does it really separate cleanly from
>the surrounding wood (and the glue itself).  Why doesn't some of the
>glue remain on the pin, possibly along with bits of wood from the block?>>
>
>Support the pinblock if you need to whack the pin, but I would just put the
>tuning hammer on the pin, knock it flat a bit, then tune. If things went
>well, you will likely hear the crack of a jumping pin, once, releasing the
>pin to be tuned. I treated quite a few pins in experimentation months ago,
>and just went and got the pieces of pinblock and cut them apart on the band
>saw. I sawed a few pins out from the block. The pins were essentially
clean,
>the glue was into the wood, no fibers torn out at all. Perhaps it was
because
>the pins I experimented on were new and plated? ( I started with pin torque
>of zero, with the pins able to fall through the holes,  and got up to 80
>in/lbs with two treatments.
>
><<Q#2:  Why doesn't the pin bind and jump during tuning from rubbing
>against a plastic and possibly uneven surface?>>
>
>Don't know, but none of the ones I have treated ever bound up or jumped,
>except for the initial break-a-way.
>
>Why not experiment on a scrap piece of pinblock in your shop before
>experimenting on the customer's piano?
>
>My 2 cents.
>
>Bill Simon
>Phoenix